I finally installed the IR alternator together with the correct jumper wires on the female end of the regulator harness as per the previously posted wiring diagrams.
I turned the ignition one, and the charge light came on.
I then started the engine, the charge light immediately went off and the voltage was between 13.7 and 14.0V.
After about 1 minute or so, the charge light flickered for a few seconds and then went off. However, when it went off, there was no longer any charging voltage. I double checked the connections and jumpers and everything is OK according to the posted diagrams for the IR alternator. There is no evidence of any electrical burn odor in the alternator or any warm/hot wires between the alternator and the battery. I'm wondering if some diodes could have failed as this is a re-manufactured alternator that may have been defective right from the get-go.

I agree that the splicing and soldering will provide for a better connection instead of the jumper wires.
It never crossed my mind to increase the size of the wire between the battery and the alternator as part of the conversion.
Thanks so much for all the comments and feedback regarding this conversion.
I'm anxious to see how much steadier the voltage is going to be in comparison to the stock setup, which was horrendous especially with EFI considering the crazy voltage spikes that could have damaged my injectors.
Thanks again.
Roger

Agreed, it is more elegant and will be more trouble-free if you splice the wires and solder the connections. It's not as easy as jumper wires, but it's better. You can even run the correct size wire for 50A from the alternator to the battery (the existing large wire is designed for 35A)

Yes, the solid-state internal regulator (transistorized) has much better voltage control than the old electro-mechanical Regulator

If you want to jump wires on the external voltage connection plug, that's fine. You're just patching your modification. Why not just wire the internal alternator direct. My external voltage regulator and plug has been gone for years. My alternator charges fine. Pull your wire harness apart, fined your connection points and make them. Simple. It will charge.

This is perfect. It confirms the required wiring for my setup. i don't need any sparks under my hood.
In your opinion, does the internal regulator alternator provide better voltage control than the old stock external regulator units? I just hate getting 16 to 20v random spikes on my EFI setup as it seriously affects the injector pulse widths and corresponding AFR fluctuations.

Thanks for helping out, it's been very much appreciated.
Long live the Datsuns and their owners.
Cheers

As far as I know, no one actually reverses the wires. Instead they connect the T-connector wires to the appropriate harness wires. The easiest way to do it is to jump the Regulator Connector that is part of the Datsun 1200 wiring harness (this Connector is already wired to the T-connector that is the Y wire and WB wire). That's what your Datsun 510 diagram is showing -- 1970-1972 510 uses the same alternator wiring as 1200

Other ways to do this includes running new wires, or cutting and splicing the harness. But easiest just to jump the wires as shown in the Tech Wiki and also shown in the 510 diagram

1. disconnect the voltage regulator
2. in the regulator connector of the engine harness, connect WB wire to WR wire
3. connect W wire to Y wire

Photo showing one jumper wire in place

The ACDelco is a rebuilt Hitachi that is specific to the Nissan 210/310.
I found this wiring diagram that appears to exactly match my existing external regulator alternator wiring setup.
This diagram doesn't show the reversing of the wires on the T-connector, but probably achieves the same results by using two jumper wires on the female end of the 6 blade harness connector.

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  6alternator_ir.jpg (115.30 KB)

vIs this the alternator you will be using?
Quote:Notice the Hitachi symbol on the back

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  AcDelco 334-1578 Alternator.jpg (163.98 KB)

If you remove the voltage regulator, the alternator will not charge. If you replace the original Hitachi alternator with a newer internally-regulated Hitachi -- it still will not charge

* The T-connector is connected to power by the regulator. Once you remove the regulator, no power will go to the T-connector unless you jumper-wire the connector or jumper the alternator directly
* The T-connector wires are reversed for the two types

A Delco alternator doesn't usually use a T-connector unless it is a rebuilt Hitachi-type alternator (rebuilt by Delco)

I have a white/black wire on the stem part of the "T" 2 pin plug on the back of the alternator and a yellow wire on the "T" part of the plug. The white/black is probably the "F" alternator terminal with the yellow connected to the "N" terminal.
So, from what you're saying is that I should not have to jump any wires on the 6-pin wiring harness at the external regulator.