Well with so many exclusions even reading back through i cant tell what we are actually supposed to be looking at or analysing anymore???

What is the issue?

The reason for mid corner change, most notable in the middle of turn two, is I'm breathing the throttle to get the car to rotate back into the second apex. Same thing in turn one. I'm not making any steering corrections, as I said in the early post I steer with the pedals. In fact many of guys are taken aback by the fact that I'm drifting the car and making hand signals at the same time. As you know loads of opposite lock scrubs speed.

So I measured the end play tonight and I've got as much as .008" if I'm measuring this right. I'm grabbing the backing plate with my fingers and pushing in on the axle flange with my thumbs, that results in 3-4 thou. Then I put my fingers behind then flange and thumbs on the brake shoes and pull out this results in 3-4 thou the other side of the 0 on my dial indicator. So 6-8 thou total. I just did the driver's side but I'll assume the it has the same issue. So basically I've got near 1/4 millimeter of slop in there. I will add another shim behind the bearing to get it in spec.

Are you feeling it im the car? Looks like it would need all sort of steering corrections to keep it going around the corner? Ive never had any upgraded suspension bars etc and never noticed anything that felt like that. Some lateral movement changing directions but not changing behaviour mid corner. Ive done all forms of racing in 1200s but not extensive amounts of track work

The last time I had a car move around like that, it had a flat tyre. if I lowered the tyre pressures too low whilst drag racing, the rims would move side ways in the tyre, as the rims were too narrow. Maybe you need to put wider rims on the back, or bring the pressures up slightly. I run 6 1/2 wide rims on a 195 tyre or 7 inch wide on a 205. that's what it looks like to me, at least.
Or that rear axle problem needs further taming.

Just to be clear in the second video the right rear shock has come undone and so there is 0 damping. The oscillation in that video is different from the original.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwTlvqOtRa8&app=desktop

In this video go to minute 24; when I come past in this one you can see there is nothing wacky going on. I believe this is before I installed the H190, I initially found and fixed end play in the axles on the H190 which really tamed the car but obviously it still moves around.

I'm planning on replacing the shocks but I'm not convinced they are the problem . From inside the car it doesn't feel like a dead shock(s).

The other issue is most 1200 racers are either not driving it as aggressively as I do or they installed a panhard or watts link at the same time they started running race compound tires. Regardless I do think one of the existing components on the car are in need of replacement or repair but it could also be it just needs some sort of lateral location device.

surely the shocks are cooked to act like that

go back to basics, a stock car would not corner like that, something is worn. Bushes and shocks is not expensive. You should not require additional components (swaybar/panhard) to correct this issue

disconnect the swaybar to see if it's any different, but if you at all suspect on the shocks then replace

It's not something that's happening over time/temperature, it's happening from go. So if it's the shocks they are totally rooted

Yes the competition sway bar attaches as you described

The one on my car is from Addco: the attachment is similar to the front, sway bar bushings on the chassis with the sway bar ends clamped on to the springs.

The car does have the traction arms; they attach just under the front shackle on one end and directly under the axle at the other.

It is possible something is binding but I don't thinks so based on past experience. I've driven a couple of RX7s that had bind in the suspension, they snapped sideways and needed opposite lock to correct them. My showroom stock Miata in backed corners would corner on the bump stops and it too had snap oversteer.

In car the 1200 is not that tricky at all from my point but outwardly it looks like a bike with worn swing arm bushings. The video does make one thing clear in my mind; this is what's causing the odd ball rear tire wear I posted a while back.

I have the car up on stands so I can yank the motor out, so we'll be going thought it once more. I'll likely try and fit a panhard but want to check everything once more. While I'm not losing anything in the corners obviously fixing this should lower the lap times.........or not.

Quote:

That doesn't sound like a standard swaybar setup to me. Normally on a live axle rear end, the swaybar attaches to the diff housing and then the ends go forward to link pins that attach to the chassis.
My recollection of the 1200 Competition Manual rear swaybar was it attached only to the leaf springs with 2 clamps on each spring ahead of the axle? But it has been several years since I looked at it.

Are you using the traction arm setup from the manual as well? That's quite possibly a cause of bind if the length is wrong.

The sway bar is a standard set up; attaches to chassis rails above the spring forward of the axle and the ends clamp on to the spring just ahead of where the axle mounts on the spring. The rear suspension is straight out of the competition suspension manual.

I'm not convinced it's the shocks either; see the video below. I flub turn 1 and didn't catch back up till 13:35. The spitfire and I dice for several laps, the right rear shock on my car came in done and so the car bounces up and down like a puppy dry humping a squeaky toy. The oscillation is quite different from what you see in the first video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wtHvOwCJ1FY

If you remember when I put the H190 in the car I found that the axles had way to much end play and the car weaved way worse than this. After watching the video I want to check the end play again just to rule it out but I'm expecting it to be fine as I just checked a few months ago. It could be a case of it just needing a lateral locating device. My problem is that this is the only race car I've owned with leaf spring suspension. Even my Formula 500 (uses 31 mm Kart axle) uses a lateral locating device. I also can't find anyone else whose experience this issue at this level.

I still say it looks like suspension bind - the way it won't take a set and just constantly unloads then grips again looks like a binding issue to me. I guess it could be the shocks, if they're doing not much initially then suddenly respond and overload the tyre?

Got any pics of your rear suspension setup? I vaguely remember something unusual about your rear swaybar setup but might be confusing that with someone else...