So I need to replace the fusible link near my battery. One of the connectors is melted n my park lights wipers and other accessories don’t work. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement or how to make a new one

Nissan stop selling them about 2015

If your 1979 has a single or a double GREEN fusible link, each link is the 20-gauge type (40 amp)

* junkyard - most 1970s/1980s Datsun/Nissan (GREEN wire), you can crimp-on the connectors to fit your 210
* Pico Universal 20G - Amazon.com
* eBay - 20G fusible link wire
* Nissan 40A FL uses different connectors
Oreilly's/AutoZone/NAPA e.g. Bussman BP-FMM-40-RP or BP-FMX-40-RP takes 1/4" spade connectors

Attach file:

---

  BP-FMX-40-RP.jpg (14.79 KB)

Double GREEN $5.99 at Autozone

JCASE fuses are designed to be used as replacement fuses for fusible links. FMX fuses are the female standard cartridges that provide both increased time delay and low voltage drop protection. FMX uses 6mm spade connectors (1/4" connectors will fit)

.

Probably the most common cause of melted connectors (on older cars) is corrosion at the connection. Over long periods of time the heat generated can melt the plastic
* Replace the connector terminal with a new one
OR if the metal is OK, and only the plastic melted
* use electrical contact cleaner on the metal part, then apply new contact grease

My car does have the 2 green wires n a red one that’s looped in there as well. Trying to post pics but it won’t let me. I will get those items u suggested. The connectors are melted and corroded

I just got this car last week and I’m trying to get it running with the help of my neighbor. We got it to fire up but it runs rough. Has a misfire somehow and has a hard time starting. Already replaced plugs wires cap and rotor. Using gas out of a gas can for now until we can clean out the tank. Cars been sitting for about 10 years. Maybe you guys can help me figure this out...here are 2 video links below of the car

https://youtu.be/8tEZx6RhMbA
https://youtu.be/BfZJG3JhASo

The first video - sounds like it was running smoothly, but you had your foot on the throttle pedal keeping it revved up. Is that because the engine won't idle by itself?

The second video (attempting to start the motor) -- sounds like the choke is not closing all the way, which will make it very hard to start

One thing that's somewhat common and can cause it to not idle is if the Idle-cut solenoid is not working. It will run fine at 1500-2000 RPM but won't run below that speed. See our tech article (click Anti-diesel valve) for troubleshooting


For the hard starting, you already have the air cleaner lid off. Pump the accelerator pedal one time then look down the carburetor throat. Is the choke flap 100% closed? If not, if it's open even a little bit, it will cause hard starting

good



if it's open this much it may not even start


The 210 is jetted quite precisely so doesn't use a lot of extra gasoline when starting. Other cars/older engines may start fine with choke a little open in warm weather -- but not the 210

It sounds like it’s running smooth in the video but it’s actually misfiring. It runs like when u have 2 plug wires crossed...that’s the best way I can describe it...I just looked at a pic i took of the carb n the choke is wide open. How do I fix that? I’m assuming that will cause it to run rough

Here are pics of the carb n fusible link

In the photo, the choke is wide open. It won't start that way