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Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Anyone willing to swap me an A14 crank for one of my A15 crankshafts?

I'm up to some evil planning again: looking to put A14 crank into A12A block in conjunction with Acura pistons.

Posted on: 9/2 2:02
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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if you can get your mate with a lathe to knife edge your A15
then have it balanced for little investment you will spin
as fast as a stock a12 crank but have more bank for your buck.

Local jp guys were and still are revving their drag race A15
engine to 10k rpm!!!!! 78mm bores will compliment it nicely.

My A15 with 36mm keihins and 79mm bores was often mistaken
for a rotary engine everywhere.

Posted on: 9/2 7:22
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
Home away from home
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whats the life span of an engine revving at 10 K ??

I know knife edging increases revs more rapidly , but drops revs quicker too
PS D , you probably did have a rotary in it .. lol

Posted on: 9/2 13:09
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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A 10K motor; probably about 6 hours of run time, the engine life is indeed directly related to the kind of revs the motor is pulling. Keeping the motor to 8K means you can probably get 100 hours out of a race motor.

The reason why I'm looking for an A14 crank is I can use 75mm Honda pistons. 86-87 Acura Integra pistons come in a flat top with a 30mm pin height. The Honda/Acura pistons have 15mm shorter skirts so they woot foul the crank. I have a A12A short block that was freshly rebuilt I'm trying to put together a "in the mean time" motor while I decide what it is I actually want to do long term.

Posted on: 9/2 20:24
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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by the time you fit and balance the a14 crank it will cost the same
as full sleeve grouted 81mm. A12 cranks are incredibly peppy
with bigger bores :)

edit
however if the crank can be machined by a mate then spend money
balancing dynamically with rods and pistons it would help.

Posted on: 9/3 6:38

Edited by D on 2019/9/3 15:57:08
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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D the Honda pistons are only 45mm long meaning there is no need to clearance the crank throws on against the pistons.

Sleeving the block would cost more than simply ordering custom pistons for my A15 block.

I'm trying to build up stuff using off the shelf parts; Honda pistons & rings are $75 for the set plus $40 to have the machine shop sit them on to the A12A rods.

So back to our regular programing; anyone have an A14 crank?

Posted on: 9/3 19:50
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
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Quote:
86-87 Acura Integra pistons come in a flat top with a 30mm pin height
30 mm pin height is what the A15 uses. The A14 has 32.5 pin height

So maybe you can simply use the A15 crank in the A12A block. Use your dremel to add the side notches that the G34 (A14/A15) block has to clear the crank throws. Use the A15 oil pan as it has the corresponding slight bulges for the crank throws, it has the same sump as A12

Posted on: 9/3 22:18
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
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Honda 1.6 ZC pistons DOHC non-vtec
* 19851987 Honda Integra AV/DA1 (some trim packages)
* 1984-1995 other Honda
* flattops with slight notches for 4-valve head
* Bore: 75mm -- same bore as A12A block (smaller than A14/A15 bore of 76mm)
* Length: reportedly 15mm shorter than A12A pistons, so its fits the A14 crank without any crank machining

Attach file:



jpg  RY6220-STD.jpg (88.07 KB)
174_5d6ee1755b0ad.jpg 1500X1000 px

Posted on: 9/3 22:55
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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David the plan would be to use the A14 crank in conjunction with the Honda pistons as a 30mm pin height is what's needed for the 77mm stroke. I've yet to try an A15 crank in an A12 block, there is a Honda piston with a 27mm pin height which would be .4 proud of the deck, not an issue one could in theory mill the piston top.

Posted on: 9/4 2:10
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Re: Swap: A15 for A14 crankshaft
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Id be scared to use the a15 crank in the a12 block
I was earlier incorrectly thinking you were to use
the a15 block not an a12 block my apologies.

high revs with short a12 block would have nasty rod
angles on the bore but the 77mm bores with a14 crank
would be awesome however you still need to machine
the a14 crank to clear the block which means extra $.

I inquired to go this route with a local engine place
and they quoted me 180-200 aud for balancing the crank
depending on the rods and pistons weights.
Machining the crank was another 150-200 depending on
the amount of material required to clear and help
bring back the balance required for high rpms.
No need to worry about that for a road engine but the
crank flexes a tad more at high rpms.

So was looking at 500 roughly for the a14 crank which
was the same price as spending 100 x 4 for each sleeve
fitted then I could grout the block myself for cheap.

I looked at using early 4age pistons from a friend
which were free as he upgraded and they came within
tolerances and a custom head gasket was 120aud from
a custom HG place that does classics and rods.

1443cc was the final capacity then Lemonhead said
his was 82mm and engine builder said there was room
for 83.5mm max so I contemplated ca18de pistons which
would allow .5 overbore later. 83mm bores = 1515cc.

The deal using an A14 crank is better for the road for
torque but also doesnt need to rev that high so an average
head would be suitable compared but we dont really know
what would happen to a 2v A series chamber with the extra
sidewall clearance, it might also be very efficient and
produce equal or more torque albeit at higher rpm.

Posted on: 9/4 3:45

Edited by D on 2019/9/4 4:15:47
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