Is there anyone still interested in the DOHC front timing plate from this thread?

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/v ... =ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

I am making (2) here in a few weeks and wanted to poke around here and see if this was still an in-demand item.

What are you using as template to make these up?

Do you have an original that you have copied or the original drawings from the original creator or is this your own design?

Are you going to make up kits with the necessary seals, cam & crank adapters, and pulleys?

I am still working through this project - hoping to put the motor together over the next few months.
I have collected everything (im pretty sure) and modified everything as required, so it should now be a bolt together operation.

The original creator put together kits for about $900 from memory, and people balked at that - dont know why - thats more than fair for what he was offering - but people are people.

Reuby I think I have a CAD model that belonged to you, but I am going to make sure it fits my A12 Block face.

I don't plan to do whole kits for these (2) currently. Just the front timing adapter, and possible other things as I go. Once I have everything drawn up and programmed I can put package sets together.

I want to make the water pump viable on this setup though, so some possible mods may happen. Anyways just the front timing adapter is $250.00 USD before shipping.

Matt if you ever do put together a full kit let me know. I like the set up but I don't want to have to the R&D.

Reubs hope you didnt mind, I was having no luck with the files myself so sent
some files to Matt to see if he could make them work and use as a base as he
did mention in the past he would like to develop his version for the community.

There are still things to work on though, the front Mazda pulley adapter and the
extra part which seemed to be a fatter cam bearing??? now re-considering we never
asked for what it way for! Ive tried to get in touch with Rob but no luck from here
so the information is getting lost for this setup over time. I really thought all
was covered in the past threads but somehow it wasnt.

Here is the original suggestion I made to Rob before he made the v1 kit for us.
He wasnt aware the Mazda rwd heads had a provision for water at the front




rwd b6 head miata etc (also has thermostat housing so very convenient)
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0366 ... IMG_7006.JPG?v=1422068398

The original datsun A waterpump is almost impossible to use its too big overall as
is the pulley diamter it uses, we discussed this at length and the only solution
was some kind of smaller external mech or the usual electric waterpump however
I also thought a smaller pump could work if you angle grind a passage from the
front primary water passsage "square" shape one in the middle mid section as in pic
at the bottom of this post and across to the cavity where the usual waterpump would
sit as it only needs to copy what is already on the A series pump but onto the block.
Plenty of meat there too on the block for this modification.

A cheap smaller pump like this one could sit in the same cavity area for original A series pump
and will use the passage created in the block area as described above
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/u2cAAOSwIM9eFDYq/s-l1600.jpg

Attach file:

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  le aaaa2.jpg (111.73 KB)


  toyota forklift K waterpump.jpg (65.29 KB)

I'm in for a kit if one emerges
PRefer complete so I don't have to think about anything
Shall watch with anticipation

I'm going to play around with the model and see if I can incorporate the factory pump back into this with a bolt on portion. Same stand off as the factory so the V belt can be used.

I don't have the finances to invest in complete kits for this. I am only working with what I have on hand within my garage. So I would need help from the community to complete a full system.

Could someone do the foot work, and make a white paper list of all items needed along with the part numbers if it hasn't been done already? Then we can get an actual cost estimate for a complete kit.


HTD Crank Pully part number.
Idler part number.
Tension Idler part number.

I've got no real issue sharing the love about. It hasn't cost me much so far to get the drawings done from the plate I already have.

If you can get a easily obtainable mechanical water pump into the setup then that's a great idea, however, don't forget that the B6 suffers from heating issues with the front thermostat setup.
In absolute stock form that front water setup is fine, but if you plan to lean on the head in any way, a coolant reroute seems necessary.
The mazda nuts all reroute to the back of the head to force the water to pass over everything, ensuring that No4 gets sufficient water else it gets hot on its own back there.

I still plan to push water into the block at the stock datsun port and pull out at the back of the head - with an electric water pump mounted somewhere - not yet decided.

let me know if you need anything more - if you can get it right then thats a win all round!



On the parts listing, i am working on a "manual" for this, documenting where everything comes from and goes to.

I can send you what I have, but its far from complete or in any real order.

The factory pump would be a remote option, but feeds and pulls from all the same places. I will start playing with visuals soon.

The real issue with electric vs mechanical is flow rates at higher RPM. It seems from the reading i have done so far on the issue is that once you get to above 6000rpm +/- (dependant on the motor) he mechanical pumps outperform the electric units.
So in hi-po race cars at WOT for extended periods, or high boosted cars (say above 25psi), the electric pumps struggle to keep flows up to keep everything under control.

It seems that whilst electric pumps have a comparatively shorter lifespan than a mechanical pump, its not short enough to be a real issue. Some electric pumps are rated to 2500 hours minimum lifespan, which at that time its just new seals.
Given, certainly for my application, I'm not chasing 35psi, or building a track car, or anything crazy, so an electric should be fine, but....

Could you machine a plate to the back of a regular mechanical pump (to blank it off), fit a suction pipe to suck the water, and then remote mount like an alternator on the side. You would need universal hoses or cut up something else, but that would seem to meet both sides of the issue.
Mechanical pump for flow and lifespan, but removing it from the front of the engine, where space is a premium (at least in my application).

I could see that since the intake of the pump would be restricted, it might cut out any benefit from going to this effort to start with...

You could also then pick a pump that has good flows, or compact size, etc.
But again, getting the serpy belt to reroute becomes another challenge (if thats the path you want).
I'm planning to only use the serpy belt to drive the head.
Ill use v-belt for everything else.