hell yeah! looks great
any chance of a pic of the back? - spose its a bit hard to see how it lines up with the water pump hole with it bolted on...

I’ll pop a pic when I get home

Looks great

Reubs why is there a stepped section on the top left provision area for the idler?

Matt achy chance if I send you this pump you can try it on to see for size to
replace the right side idler?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRTEX-7162 ... fce8c6:g:ll8AAOSw-0Bd9Opg




Ive been re thinking of using a different pump instead of electric
external one would be great if you can solve it but Im still scratching
in my head the chance of using another pump instead of the A series
but in the same position. Just need to know the width of the belt for
the chrysler engine it belongs to and also what width belt Rob used.
Oh crap it might spin the wrong way!!!??? or draw water from a reverse
location from that block?!!







edit* seems the Toyota Y series waterpump spins the right way
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Toyota-5FG-6FG ... 15661?hash=item3d97fc8c4d

D.
When looking at the front , dizzy to the left.
The squarish stepped down area in the top left is to allow the idler here to sit in the right position.

The circular cutout at the bottom right is to allow the idler to have clearance.

When I mocked up everything it all lines up as intended so i left well alone.
You could possibly remove that dropdown section and the belt would still line up but it all works.

I would take a photo with it mocked up but im getting copies made now so the cnc dude has it.

Any chance Matt that you can send me your updated drawings so i can pass them to my cnc dude?
Im just keen on the cutout for the water

Reubs you can also drill through that spot in the waterpump cavity
if you already have a cnc plate from Rob.
Would you know what the crank spacer is made from? steel pipe?

Ive been looking for an article on the s1 mx5 that made 166kws atw
from a works b6 engine, it is white and looks sweet. I will be happy
just to use the exhaust cam on the inlet as well as that gives a
good bump from 125hp to about 140hp with good exhaust system.

Reuby can you send me a pilot email to Mattndew02@yahoo.com, and Ill send my plate model over. Its all in imperial measurements now though.

D all the pacers can be machined from aluminum instead of steel if they are good slip fits and aren't clanging around. Heck even the the crank drive pulleys can done from aluminum and they would be fine.

I will finish machining up the oil pan skirt, but I have to move back into manufacturing for a while. taking the days to get this going takes a toll on the income. R&D is always a losing battle in a garage based company.

Sounds good Matt, pls no rush Im still trying to secure a bottom end and
head locally but looks like I will have to go to the mainland.
The hassles of being in a small island but the Datsun twin cam spirit
will never die, even without a Datsun!

The upper left tab has to be modified for the Z5 cylinder head