Just found another weight for the Superlight 180sl (basically a mazda 13b with alloy front, middle and rear housings from raing beat) and a 35lb propeller step gear.
at 210 - 35 lb = 175lb

Then 175lb divided by 2.2 = 79 kgs!

confirming my calculations made using the data found earlier.

Add 16kgs to the 79 = 95/96kgs for the normal steel and alloy version of the 13b

It seems the turbo rotaries are the boat anchors which still make small cars 9s cars at the drags but the NA 13b is the lightweight.

The fact is 13b of any sort are rarely used as it makes most non rotary small cars illegal in all club events as well as on the road

Got some info on the 13b from aviation sites and guru racing.

13b dry, minus starter, water pump, and manifolds. includes Guru racing cro moly flywheel and clutch
84.5kg
add around 6 kg for internal fanned alternator at 65 amps and water pump 4 kgs but still dry no oil and no water thats around
95kgs
which is close to the 225lbs for the older 12a with the cast iron water pump.
If you use alloy housings for Racig beat you can knock off another 16kgs off the engine
79 kgs!!! at almost 3950!!!! big ones
Even so still cheaper all up than works A series from Japan.
That means to do the sums at 79 kgs with race extend port 235 hp
1kg/2.97hp
with max power PP porting at 340hp
1kg/4.3 hp

Ill be happy with 1kg/2.5hp

sourced from
www.Monito.com
http://www.gurumotorsports.com
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunn ... ide/rv/bunny/mazda13b.htm

Man rotors still flirt me

sorry,
www.turbophile.com

what's your source for those weights?

Engine weights are (in Kg's)
A12 - 87
A14/15 - 93
CA18DE - 113
CA16 - 113
L16 - 113
L18 - 118
CA18ET - 118
CA18DET - 128
L18SSS - 133
L20B - 137
SR20DE - 139
FJ20DE - 144
SR20DET - 149
FJ20DET - 166

does anyone know what is the weight of standard L-16?
barpk

I don't have photos of the gearbox x-member. mine runs to the 'chassis rails' (if you can call them that) on either side of the floorpan, and has a plate tacked to the inside of those rails, with 2 nuts welded to each plate, so the mounts are concealed with captive nuts. You could bolt it through the floor with reinforning plates inside.

And yes, just modify the engine mount brackets on the motor to sit the engine as low and rearward as possible. be careful of clearance from the sump to the drag link as it raises a little as you turn.

I am currently doing a simalar modification. I have a L20B which i am putting in a 1200 wagon. All i did was drill out the spot welds on the stanza engine mounts and welded them onto the 1200 cross member, the thing is that it sits too high that i can't close the bonnet properly and it needs to sit further back. I have the original 4 speed attached to the engine which came with it. As L18_B110 had said, yes i had to cut the spot welded gearbox cross member mount bracket out and cut the gear stick hole bigger. L18_B110 or anyone who has done the same, i'm asking what did you do for the gear box cross member and mounts (photos if possible) and did you just chop the engine mounts shorter and move them back and weld (that just sounds too simple).Any info would be muchly appreciated as i want to beat my brother who has a 1000 2door sedan with a A15, cam, head work, extractors etc. Cheers, Macca

Good luck with the hillclimb you lucky people who get to see the best up there. unlike us down here..
Just came back from the wreckers and saw a ca20 with 4 valve depressions on the block someone already took the head and it seems that it was a single cam head. I looked at other ca20 engines and they had no valve reliefs or only two. Do you know if the ca20 can receive the twin cam head from the ca18 and if its worthwhile. I question this because the block seems lighter than the L20 by seeming shorter and very compact. Perhaps this block was a die cast block and not sandcast, which could make it thinner and more compact???
As you can see Im still looking at nissan options other than rotary. Oh it also had extractors with the sohc pattern exhausts. Unless the ca18 has also the same exhaust pattern it had to be a soch.

not the openwheeler! his Toyota Sprinter with the wild 4AGE, close ratio T50, TRD LSD, adjustable everything etc etc. He doesn't actually have any open wheeler race cars (anymore) or that NZ Fraser clubman thing he talks about (yet).

I discovered on the weekend that I weighed the L18 with oil in it, not dry like I thought, so you could safely subtract 4.5kg for the 4l of oil. Not a huge difference, but in the interests of a fair comparison...