Hy. I will give it a try again, I have not been using the Datto , waiting for the DMV permit to drive the datto, soon will get a rescheduled appointment for the smog check,hope to end that chapter of my Datto's life for good. I will put more air into the tires,will go to max (35 or 44 not sure) for the bat treatment. The rear is very solid, all I need is a small bend, it is not like it needs a lot, hope to do it. Also I will install this helper springs I had before, it is like a bar that goes under the springs, below the spring plate, and touches the leaf spring both before and after the axle.Helps adding more strenght to the leafs, like having stronger springs . I have to fabricate a small block though, because the springs are now flat(decambered) so the helpers are made with some camber, (like the originals, before decambering)and a small metal block under the plate(spring) will help accomodate the helper, I think it will work, will get pictures when done. __________________________

My 1200 sat off the road from1993 to 2001
and did not need a smog cert..73 and older
is exempt?? All I needed to do was have the
V.I.N. number verified and I was back on
the road.. I don't see why you should need
a smog just 100 miles north.

Jaime is talking about a anti-smog-equipment choked B-210 instead of the exempt 1200s. Chalk up one more advantage to the B110 over the B210.

Done it on a falcon of all things! it had cut springs and rubbed on the front, tire pressure wasnt that much, you just have to work on one area for a while till it flattens off. now it doesnt rub at all on full lock and it looks like it was done by a pro!

Wub, Dgonz got ahead in the response, my 1200 ute has no problems, due to its year and location, this horror story about the beautty(B210) the smog, and the beast(DMV), is about my B210.It is more a story about David up against Goliath. This DMV people want a car to keep all emissions parts intact and in 100% working order for 30 years, while dealers/automakers/manufacturers are only required to support vehicles with parts and spares for 10 years only. They also do not understand that vehicles made prior to 1990's...(yes, even my88 Samurai has problems with the lean requirements burning exhaust valves, endemic to Samurais, bad design, inefficient, renders a car useless, the engine is not inefficient, the smog added parts messes up it all)... and even more so 70's cars, where not made to exist with smog devices, those added devices destroy the engines and robb them of needed power for proper performance. Narrow minded people, trained in one area, they can not see the world from different angles, too bad.I will win, I never surrender, 100 years , 1000 years, I can go on, victory is in my name.
About fenders, the front seems easy, the rear is tough, it is like double walled. I will try the spring helpers, they worked good before, when I lowered the suspension, the rear leafs went straight as opposed to curved(stock) so I needed longet U bolts(actualy they are squared U bolts)... to re install them, to grab the helpers in place, so I did not do it again, but these helpers do not re raise the suspension, but add strengh to the springs, without harshness, like stronger(racing/performance) springs do.That should keep the rear more sturdy, reducing the rub to a minimal...(actually the rub is small, but enough to annoy,without gas in the tank, it went almost oK, but when I filled the tank, it was bad, but I checked the area where it should rub against the tire, it is almost imperceptible, just the edge, the tire shows very little scratch,)... so , helpers and a little more bat work, and full tire pressure should help. Last time I did the bat trick, the tire was giving up, (I keep them at 23/24PSI), so if I inflate them to their max(35 or 44 not sure), that should help. I have not done the front yet, I figure it will be piece of cake, it is a tin can compared to the rear. The front rarely rubs, but once I get the ground control spring overs, it will, but that seems an easy job(front flaring).
If there is a San Diego Datsun meet, perhaps I will see the Wubbits mobile. looks cool.
Dgonz, which one is your ride at Shasta, was it photograped? I was there with the 610, you know it from the photo.
Jaime

There's always the less dangerous way

I usually jack up the car and remove the wheels. Then use a body hammer to slowly bend the lip back. Not as quick, or as easy but it always works for me.

And for what it's worth, you really only have to roll a 6-8" section in the center. That's the only spot where it rubs the tire.

Hy 10's &20's, I think I will try that one , by body hammer you mean the rubber covered hammers? ...probably it will take a little longer, but it will have to work,light hammering , patience, will show finnished work.
I just cut some metal blocks to put under my spring plates for the spring helpers,the spring plate is not straight(uneven, the side of the shock stud is sloping, while the opposite is horizontal) so the helpers will rest on the blocks, blocks against underside of plates, it will be the equivalent of adding or replacing a leaf with a stronger one, not much strong, but the needed strenght(like in perf springs, higher rate). It works, and it is a home made solution against purchasing racing leaf springs or adding on leafes/replacing one with a sturdier one. I took pixes, will show them (when developed, still in the Flinstones Neanderthal times)
Jaime________________________________

Hy. Just an update on the Bbat treatment on the fenders, looks like, untill I drop it more(probably one more inch) I'll be fine, because I installed the helper spring bars, and the car is working excelent, now it does not touch/rub, the helpers are holding on, as good as they did before(I got them on before I decambered the springs 2 inches). With the help of these helper springs, I might get away with an extra inch with blocks(one inch block). Cool. Now I will get into the fronts, coil overs.Actually the front has shorter springs (about 2 inches) with the gas inserts, so, with the koni inserts(fluid) the same should happen, it will drop more, so coil overs + Konis , will be excelent, yes!
______________________________

Is there a noticable difference to the outside of the guard when you do this or are you only moving it fractions of an inch so it just clears the tyre.

Will it actually look more agressive or is it just for practical reasons?

Anyone got any pics of a car with it done?

Oh yeah if you are baseball batting the rear arches you will probably need a couple of friends (or one fat one) sitting in the back to give it enough weight...

Yes. Pics of said Helpers please...