For my power window wires, I drilled 1/2 inch holes in the door and chassis, next to the existing door switch hole. Then I used plan 1/2 o.d. rubber tubing from a used car and ran the wires inside that. It worked perfectly, the hose didn't wear from chafing, and the wires were safely protected inside.

Now I am more horrifiied at the thought of drilling holes in my new 1200. I've been thinking of ways to do it without drilling ... any ideas?



Window switch. I put this right where the stock crank goes, to cover the hole.



Coupe regulator (top) is more complex than the 2-dr Sedan one (bottom). I used the coupe regulator in my Sedan doors, because I had extras to modify.



Here's the guts of the thing

Here's a pic of the motor with the bracket.

It's a bolt-on to the 1200 window regulator. The bracket is made out of heavy-gauge sheet metal.




This is a stock 1970's-vintage GM power window motor. The other side I used a Ford motor. Both have gears that mesh correctly with the 1200 regulator.




It's really not as complicated as it looks. On one side, you can see that I removed the coupe regulator extra linkage (it doesn't seem to need it ...). The two brackets in top right corner are limit-switches, where when the window goes up and down, it hits the switch and cuts power. But again, those aren't necessary, unnecesarily complicated, so I didn't use them on the other side (when the window goes up or down, it stops with or without a switch).

hehe im doin it!

um the only bit i get is why you dont need to use the limt switches?, or is just a case of make sure you take your finger off the button when it hits top or bottom

Fords and GMs didn't use limit switches -- the door frame stops the motor. It also seemed to work OK on my 1200 without 'em. I thought maybe the 1200 door frame wouldn't be strong enough so I tried the limit switch.

This is cool. It looks very simple and if you make new door panels, I'm planning on aluminum, you can eliminate the hole and install flush mounted switches.
The limit switches probably protect the motor and the regulator gear from unessesary stress. Most power windows seem to go up (or down), bottom out and flex the door a little, then shut off.
Now...can you figure out how to make power rear windows??? Some minivans have them. I've seen the motors, remotely located above the headliner, drive a cable that moves the window linkage.
Those back windows are now almost impossible to open with a full cage.