Not the right way to go about it.

Find an engineer, ask them what is required..and follow their requirements.

It's true that different engineers require different things. So don't go down the path of thinking you know what's required, because you might get a rude surprise when you find you have to "undo" some of your good work, before a reputable engineer will pass it.

How would you feel if some young fella killed himself, because you'd signed off on a non-roadworthy conversion?

But sure, it can be done. Just read through the various posts on the costs of approval/transplant, before thinking you can get out of it for less than $5000.

Chris

what are the costs of mod-plating/engineering ect, dont think ive ever read it here?

In NSW The engineers certificate costs from $280 to $500, depends on engineer and number of mods. Budget for $400.

Then $20 - $50 for a weighbridge certificate.

Then Blueslip (roadworthy - decent 30 minute inspection) $70ish, then off to the RTA registry to change the details.

Chris.

I paid $300 for my mod plate that covered 7 mods. Engine, gearbox, fuel tank, diff, brakes, suspension and seat.
Matty

spud your in luck mate because the mechanic is talking rubbish. My CA18DET ute was engineered in NSW originally (I can get the engineers name if you would like me to send it to you). My ute was originally engineered with the drum brake rear end and Mitsubishi Verada discs with Commodore calipers up front.

When it came to getting the ute re-registered in the ACT I had the whole thing re-engineered with a borg warner diff and VN V8 rear discs and calipers. The new certificate also includes the EMS computer, FMIC, BOV, boost controller and ram pod though you may have some trouble getting these on a NSW certificate.

As Chris said ring up an engineer and follow his guidelines. The reason you get a car engineered is so you know that the car is safe.

Just as a side note, you are able to get an SR20DET 1200 ute engineered in the ACT (not NSW). I know this because we have checked it out with our local engineer and he has already done one we just have to follow his guidelines.

Cheers

Oh and Mely thats what I did with my suspension. I had a stronger leaf made up by Pedders to stop the tramping, turned it over using the clamps then bolted it back up. It lowered the ute and it handles well.

Lowering blocks can add to tramping and can have legal issues around them. Just find out off the RTA what the legal height is (100mm?).

does anyone know of an engineer in perth that is happy to talk about these things. i want to put a SR20DET into a 120Y coupe. i know you can put a CA18DET into a 1200 ute because there is the one featured in hot 4's from perth and i've met the guy, so if that can be done can i assume that the SR can be put into a 120Y that is a bit heavier?

thanks in advance
Aaron

The B210 is about 20-25% heavier than a 1200 ute.

do you have an exact weight for the B210 coupe or sedan if thats what they work off. i can't find it in my gregorys book.

No such thing as "exact weight". It depends on how it's measured (1/2 tank fuel, etc) and what options the specific car has. US models weigh more due to the heavy bumpers. Perhaps in AU the average 120Y is less than 20% heavier than the average 1200.

The figure that matters for your question is the one dattodude mentioned: Quote: