a couple of possibilitys
#1 brake adjustment to tight causing drag
7 mm head square adjuster
#2 Brake fluild pressure build up
To check open bleeder valve on wheel cylinder if pressure is present check adjustment rod to master cylinder if to tight it may be holding brakes on.
#3 do you use a power booster if so remove vac from booster and check may pressure staying on also
Bob

Any spiders in your brake lines? I remember one summer when I left the hose off the garden tap. A big spider climbed into the top of the hose. I reconnected it and turned on the hose...The sprinkler end had spider legs hanging out and flowing REALLy badly..He was a mighty big spider.

I think the splitter valve is a possibility. Find a 180B one? (What sort of M/C) for as cheap as possible. It will only mean bending the tubes a little to fit hopefully.

Wait for other comments to be sure.

Brakes seem like a simple device, but there's plenty of components that "normal" people don't have to think about. It's us "hybrid guys" that keep running into these incompatablity problems...and learning how things work not only the hard way, but the expensive way too.

Chris

the M/C is brand new.
BUT the splitter is the original 1200 item. could it be the cause of all my whoes?
bloody hell it would be the last thing id check!
cheers ill try replacing it.
Any other possabilities?

Does your splitter valve come from the same car as the master cylinder? Are both parts suitable for a Disc/drum configuration?

I had a 180B M/C and a Toyota splitter valve (I liked the warning switch on it), but it never worked properly. I used the uglier 180B splitter valve and it started working perfectly.

When brakes bind up like that, it's because the master cylinder is acting like a pump, it sounds like the master cylinder might need a rebuild. This should be done every 10 years I find. Especially if it's come from a wrecking yard (where no fluid is left in it for ages). The master cylinder get Aluminium Oxide buildup, which can cut the seals inside the M/C.

1. Make sure that the M/C and splitter match
2. Go buy a reconditioning kit for your master cylinder from Repco/AutoPro..

Chris

Ive been having problems with my brakes for a long time now. The back drums are standard, the fronts are 255mm vented stanza disks and calipers and feeding these is a 180b master cylinder. My problem is the backs are almost always on. there not noticable when cold but after 2-5 mins its like towing a trailer and they really bind up in reverse. Ive checked the pads and they are correct and on ok, the hand brake is loosened off WHATS GOING ON!!!!!!! My thinking is it can be only two things, the slave cylinders are wrong (they look new, maby the guy before me got the wrong ones) or Ive set up the master cylinder wrong. Ive checked the shaft that conects to the brake peddle and its not under load. the lines are conected properly fronts go to the back and the backs to the front of the M/C. Im not sure if the fronts might be binding slightly but it feels as if the system is under pressure.
HELP!!! its really f*cking me off!
Cheers
Quinn