Hey All,
I'm thinking of putting a 1200 ute diff in my 120y. I'm after your advice . I can source either a 120y sedan or a 1200 ute diff for it.
The one that is in the car at the moment needs bearings , so I guess it has to come out .
I'm also wanting to put an "L20b" stroker in . So the diff will need to be able to handle some torque.

They late Aussie 120Y sedan has the Borg Warner 68.

1200 Utes came with two different diffs:
H145 1971-1973
H150 1975-up

I reckon the H150 is the strongest of the lot. Just be sure to get the matching tailshaft with the diff.

http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/Rear_Axle_Swaps

didnt aussie utes have h165 from 73ish onwards?

the 3 1200 utes ive had did. (all 76 models)

1973 was the H145
1975 was the H150

I keep forgetting what 1974 utes had.

That is a great link. It covers lots of territory.
Unfortunately it does also get into some baffling stuff. I don't really want to get into cut down diffs and I'd like to stay with Datsun if possible. I don't want to go near an engineer so the swap has to stay nice and simple (4 link is not on the agenda).
Does anyone know if the track of a 120y is the same as 1200 ? On the wiki it says that 1200's are 1305 drum to drum.

Track is the same for B110 and B210:

1245 mm (center of tread - to - center of tread)

ddgonzal, 73 on utes have H165 not H150

shirley, 120y and 1200 diffs are the same width
and you should either get a 1200 ute diff or a 120y BW, your 120y is a sedan??? if so then you would be better off getting a BW out of a 120y sedan as ute h165s dont have the shock mounting point
but not hard to change if you have a welder

The diff I am using currently is a 120y sedan in a 120y wagon.

wagon shocks should mount on the plate that the U bolts bolt to(under the leaves) if so then i doesnt really matter what diff

so which ever out of the BW and the H165 is cheaper adn easier to get would be best
unless you wanted straight bolt on discs or something, in which case the h165 would have the advantage