Where do we get forged conrods for the mighty A15 I spoke to the guys at Paeco and they want like US$1450 I mean the motor didn't even cost me that much.The reason I want forgies is because I will be running forged pistons.Any help is greatly appreciated.

That's a CA18 forged rod sitting with an A14 rod, worth some more investigation since A14 and A15 share the same conrods, it's just the piston pin height and crank that differ.

Thread for teh pic : Rods forged in FIRE!01101101!!!!!

Orger Engines in Bayswater can make you any conrod in any dimention that you want for about $500 each. Then you can offset grind a crank and do whatever piston / conrod combo that you want!!

For A14/A15 tall blocks 204.1mm

Cheap rods with great clearance for strokers with 136.62 (E16/E15et) and 140.462mm (E15) in length are Nissan E series rods.
These are an alternative if you get the crankpins machined and retreated from 48mm(is that right on A series cant remember?) to suit 40mm at the same time you can play with the stroke or move the centre 8mm after tdc like modern toyota and other engines using max power of the powerstroke, downward angle and less friction for low rod/stroke ratios like used in hondas, nissan and everyone else these days.




E15 and E16/E15ET rods, 140.64mm and 136.62mm respectively

Look how much clearance they would have in a stroker!!!!!!
Also how beef they are but small big end to reduce friction
and overall weight.

For A12 short blocks 189.1mm?

Hayabusa Conrods are a nice option and here is a chart I compiled.

CONROD + CRANKSHAFT Unit: mm (in)
Conrod small end I.D.
STD/SPEC: 20.010 – 20.018 (0.7878 – 0.7881), LIMIT - 20.040 (0.7890)

Conrod big end side clearance
STD/SPEC: 0.10 – 0.20 (0.004 – 0.008) LIMIT - 0.30 (0.012)

Conrod big end width
STD/SPEC: 20.95 – 21.00 (0.825 – 0.827)

Crank pin width
STD/SPEC: 21.10 – 21.15, (0.831 – 0.833)

Conrod big end oil clearance
STD/SPEC: 0.032 – 0.056 (0.0013 – 0.0022) LIMIT: 0.080 (0.0031)

Crank pin O.D.
STD/SPEC: 37.976 – 38.000 (1.4951 – 1.4960)

Length for the Hayabusa I think is 119.500mm
big end and small end width 20.975mm
G/pin diameter is 20mm

38mm crankpins (means 10mm stroke possible or 10mm offset crank centre
just by offset grinding)

The Suzuki TL1000R conrod is: 122.9868mm is a better size but cant find specs

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Why not just use the stock A-series forged conrods?

Okay guys so if I get my hands on some CA18 forged conrod all I have to modify is the small end from what I have read????????Also the reason I want forged rods is that from what I have read on the site about the forged rods is that they are stronger and lighter than the stock items.I have lightened the fly wheel and crank a good deal so I would rest easier with forged rods.

the reason i was suggesting the stronger rods from e15et or e15
for turbo and hayabusa rods for NA setups is because they are
superior.

My motor is normally aspirated so from what you are saying I should use the Hiyabusa rods.Why are they superior to after market CA rods????????From the photo that has been posted of the CA rod with the A14 rod on top of it looks very close in terms of size.

Weight is the key, standard datsun A series rods are lighter than billets
H beam and many others.
The Hayabusa rod is suited for a short deck a12
not really an a14/15.
The hayabusa rods dimensions allow you to run smaller offset crankpin for
more stroke or offset crank centreline.

Do as DD said and save youself a fortune and run standard worked rods or
if you want to rev higher then the e15et rods with modded crankpins will
they give higher rod stroke ratio and 7mm offset crankshaft centreline for
better power usage as the rod is already past crank centreline where longer
rod combos have difficulty in speed. Do some research and dont spend big
money on what is not needed, in your case a heavier rod that makes no more power.
Have a look at some past links youll see standard cast mazda pistons and
other makes work very well with stock rods. Its all in the work and finish
done to your internals, speedway people and other datsun racers know this.
I suggest the e15et rods as they are 3.5mm longer, have smaller cranpin
which is essential to make extra power, have less weight for material
and strength of rod, allow stroking/destroking and offset crank centerline
as mentioned. Also cheap as chips.