Just finished mounting up the A15 in the P312 sedan, now need to fit some sort of remote electric oil pump and filter.

Has anyone used any sort of elec oil pump before and with what results?

by the book the pressure needs to be from 17psi at idle with a relief of 60psi.
as an elec pump will most likely be a constant pressure, does anyone see a problem with a constant 60psi from idle right through.
Anyone have an idea of flow rate required as well?

Cheers
Dave.

Dry sumping is the main reason I've heard about for electric pumps so it definatley possible there are units that will do it but the cost of them?

I never heard of them. The dry sump scavenger pumps I've seen were mechanically driven.

This is one component you want to drive manually, so there is no chance of electrical feature destroying the engine.

G`day Pendles,

You won`t be able to run any sort of electric oil pump. Mechanical pumps flow about 8 lts per minute at at least 60PSI. Electric oil pumps are sometimes used for gearbox or diff oil coolers and are $500 to buy. These are only for low pressure applications.

Is ther any way you can run the standard pump?

A remote belt driven pump is your only other option. With this comes great cost, complexity and reliability issues compared to the standard pump.

why do u need to do this, Is the oil filter in the way of something else in your engine bay?

I've come to the same conclusion after a bit more research, the cheapest pumps are well over $500 for the flow and pressure range I'm after.

The original pump comes in contact with the joint between steering column and steering box in the 312, and is located directly above the crossmember which passes under the front of the motor.

There's enough room to make a screw-on block to remote the filter, but the only way to run the original pump would be to move the front of the engine across about an inch, which introduces driveling angle problems.

Might have to keep fiddling, or look at ways to reduce the size of the joint going into the steering box which is the old two tees either side of a rubber disc.

See how I go.

Cheers
Dave

maybe replace the joint with a modern uni? there are engineering shops the sell the (sort of like a universal socket joint)heaps Of sizes and A'few ways of fitting

was thinking more along the lines of making the diameter of the disc smaller, its nearly 2" wide as is, should be able to more than halve that with thicker tee pieces and a harder compound rubber.

that should give me about an inch of clearance, as the pump only just touches the joint. Have to allow for twist of the engine under load as well.

Dave

A lot of engine swaps have the engine off by one inch. Many 1200s have their A14 swaps off an inch off at the front, in the vertical plane.

I know theoretically it is not good, but it doesn't seem to hurt them, or introduce vibration.