Dont you love that, I re-tighened the old b10
head bolts as its been 10,000klms and the
middle bolt on the exhaust side has snapped
leaving probably 2.5mm above the block deck.

Has anyone tapped out a bolt with the head on
or should I remove the head again and start again?
Must install the "13" type bolts on this time.

You could try drilling a hole in the end of it and use an 'easy-out' but you want to make sure that the shavings don't go into the engine and there's no guarantee

thats what happened in my ford xe i broke a fulcrum bolt while tihgtening it down i had to drill and hole in the centre and tap it out

but mine broke deep down so the thread was exposed and the drill slipped and damaged the thread on the head so i had to drill it out and put helicoil threads in!

Yikes... that's a real PITA

I had this happen but it snapped near the head rather than on the shank.

As demacoz said you might be in a little strife with the swarf getting through the engine, I think all you can do is keep compressed air on it as you drill (head removed).

Personally I would remove the head and mask the entire deck (masking tape or contact adhesive sheet [degrease the block deck with some spray spirits or 'wax & degreaser' Diggers brand to get the oil off so the tape or contact sheet can stick properly]). In the meantime get some WD40 or the like in and around the bolt and give it a few very light taps taps with a hammer to break and binding that has rusted in below. Keep applying the WD40 to make sure it really soaks in then begin your work of drilling.

You COULD weld another bolt head or lateral piece of steel to the bolt remains and use that to turn it out but it depends on what you have available.

drill and tap a hole in it and put a small bolt like m6 with two nuts locked up and unscrew it carefully

Hi D

Once i had the same issue if it is 2.5mm above you can simply fabricate a steel nut and tap it to to the both side with a small hammer few times and could take it out easily after that.

thanks
regards
sumith

Thank you guys, I would prefer not put another gasket back in but
looks like I have no choice. Will use the "13" bolts this time.
The nut idea is a good one if I can just thread one on then either
tack weld on the inside or use some industrial strength glue on
the thread it might do it.
I bought a durapro graphlex with stainless fire rings as I thought
it would be a good investment if I keep re-tightening every 10K km.
I must make sure I replace all my stock head bolts with lucky 13.

Was it overtightened? Or did you just torque them up and that one broke?

Welding the nut to the shank is a good idea actually, makes it an easy weld too. Just be sure to cover the deck. If your only welding then some decent cloth would do the trick (denim etc) to cover the deck, but best to play it safe and mask it over.

forget easy outs, you'll break those too. If it only 2.5MM above the block deck best bet would be to pull the head & weld a new hex head bole onto the broken one then unbolt it. I'd prep the broken bolt by flattening the top if its sheared in as funky way.

There is always vice grips as a 1st attempt prior to welding.

good luck!

OK, read your last post more thoroughly, so you have threads above the block? If so the nut idea isn't bad but I'd consider running it down to the block surface then infilling the remaining exposed inside portion of the nut with a spot / plug weld then welding another bolt on top of it for removal. You'll probably only get one shot at this before its a block trip to the machinist.

Here I was originally thinking I could get a long enough titanium drill bit to try and
then use an easy out. bad idea will try vice grips first if possible then the nut welding.
thanks again