Greetings,
I have a very small prob with our ute. When I start braking and pulling up out the front of our place it idle's very slow then just stalls.

Would it be just the idle srew needs a little turn to keep the idle speed up a bit ?? There seems to be heaps of fuel to the carb etc.

And when is it best to ajust the idle screw , when engine is hot or cold ??

Regards & Thanks
Andrew

hi Amshaw, Just a thought but do you have a booster on your brakes? If so it could be leaking. Im no mechanic so please dont quote me on that

It's sometimes hard to say what can be wrong without driving it....but l would start with..

check the air filter...can be dirty/blocked and need replacing
make sure all vacuum lines are attached and where they should be.

You can try just turning up the idle speed, but if it idles fine normally, and only stalls when slowing down, then l'd think it's something else.

Oh yeah prob best to adjust idle screw when hot, as this is the condition it will be in when driving (use choke when cold!)

1st Check for air leaks in the Booster, Inlet Manifold and Carby, also check the Distibutor that the vacuum advance is working. Check for any broken gaskets or hoses that lead from the carby or Inlet manifold... When all are fixed then you can tune it properly.
See the only leak your allowed to have is through the Butterfly valve and any air coming from anwhere else is bad news, it means your car will run out of tune.

I'm glad it wasn't just me that had this problem. I have had at least two A-series powered cars that would do just that. Run fine but stumble and die when braking to come to a stop. One was a 1200 with no brake booster, the other a B-210 with a brake booster. Kooky!
The "adjustment" I always made was to "adjust" the position of the stock carb to a new location. (Ususally to the large cylindrical object in the corner of the shop.) Weber carbs have fixed the problem every time for me.

I dont think this will solve your problem, but I'll throw it in anyways.
I had a problem with the engine not idling after it warmed up. It would run just fine, but as soon as you let go of the gas it would die. It turned out to be that anti-dieseling solinoid on the side of the stock carb. It is supposed to cut fuel to the idle circuit when you turn off the ignition. I found a blown fuse, in the wire harness near the wiper motor ( LH drive US 1200).
Unfortunatly for me, I found the fuse after I had ripped off the carb, intake, exhaust and head

I second checking vaccuum hoses. Dying when slowing down is often caused by a leak, especially if the engine is warm.

It could be the mixture or idle speed, BUT ... to adjust those optimally, ya gotta be sure there are no vacuum leaks. So check the hoses and diaphraghms first.

- Adjust the idle speed with engine fully warm.

You can adjust it cold ... a stock engine will run fairly well over a broad range of idle speed (say 500-900 rpm when warm). This is good if you just wanna get by without adjusting it perfect. Running it faster will cover up some problems.

- Idle mixture should be adjusted with engine fully warm.

- For cold engine, adjust the fast-idle cam. This affects the speed for a minute or so after starting. Don't make it real fast, just fast enough.

There is a post from last month that talks more about checking vacuum leaks.

Thanks Guys for the idea's. First thing there isnt a brake booster on our ute.

When I got home from work I let it run a while untill hot. first thing I didnt know which way to turn , so I screwd it clockwise, but of course it slowed and died. Im guessing that when I did that it cut off more fuel getting by ??

So I went the other way almost all the way out then back in again untill it ran smooth and with a few more RPM, but not to much ( I wish it had a tacho !! ) Just for info what is the hot idle speed ment to be, about 6oo RPM isnt it ?? Oh I think someone said that already.

I also had alook at vac hoses and sprayed some WD-40 across the intake manifold etc , blew out air filter, yes from inside out and sprayed some carb cleaner while I was pokeing around.

And that seams to have fixed it !!

Oh by the way whats the deal with the vac advance on the distertor ?? how are you ment to check it ?? I pulled the hose off when running and I think it slowd a little and there was a little "suck" from he carb end of the hose. Put it back and the engine went up a few RPM, does this souind right, please let us know because I havent a bloody clue on this one.

But its fine for now , but I will see whats it like in the morning etc.

Regards & Thanks heaps
Andrew Shaw
amshaw

G'Day All,
I started the ute this morning with no probs and it was only about 8 deg in temp.

The bloody thing died a few time before it got to normal running temp because I didnt have the choke enough I guess. I pushed it in early just to see what would happen etc.

After it got to the right temp I pushed the choke off and it was fine. So I will need to keep the choke on a little longer I guess.

Oh I almost forgot to meantion that before the motor stalled something clicked in the engine bay and the ALT light came on but the engine was still running , just , any idea's ??

Regards & Thanks
Andrew Shaw
amshaw

If the ALT light is staying on then you have something to worry about...

You're alternator could be dying, and you're car will still run (just) while you have charge in your battery...but you don't want to let it go..

check the voltage output with a multimeter while the car is running, it should be above 12V, around the 14V mark.

If it's not, check to make sure you have enough tension in your timing belt. Also make sure all wires are attached, terminals are clean etc....

If all these check out and you don't have enough voltage, prob need new alternator. (or rebuild yours??)