going to get 10mm thread added to the castor rods to pull the tyres forward a bit but i also want to get some negative camber going

i have stanza struts, i dont want to adjust the lower control arm cause increased track would cause rubbing of guards, i want to move the top point in, elongating holes is out of the question, i figure i could make adjustable strut tops myself but that would be frowned on quite severly so im going to have to fork out for some k-macs or something, whats the best way to go, ive heard of cheap ones bushes wearing out quickly even with nolethane, any suggestion on brands or any tips to look at when purchasing?, rough prices?

i got some rear shocks for christmas and ordered some urethane bushes for the back so thats going to be tight as soon, apparently nolethanes no ggod for rally as its too hard and can chip or wear with dirt too rapidly

In the downloads section there is a book from the seventies that explains how to convert the original front struts to adjustable it should still apply to your stanza struts (they are 200B aren't they ?)

is the net going bloody slow for everyone at the moment?
i gave up waiting for the download, i dont think it has what im after and if it does its probably going to be something i cant do myself legally, i remember adjustable ride height and stuff being in their which i plan to do to some 240k struts if i get some twin spot ones cheap sometime, which reminds me i want to drop the back an inch too, how much are lower springs? should i get reverse eye or something or just reset lower ones??

Have you considered modifying your bottom arms, if you are allowed in your rallying class you could weld bosses in to accept rod ends which will allow you to modify camber settings.(cheaper and less involved than adding adjustable camber plates to strut towers)

If you do fit camber plates make sure you can adjust camber & castor with them then you probably don't need to add the thread to the castor rods

yeah thanks fellas, i had a chat with my mechanic and he reckons the same as matt, get some top plates which will allow both changes and dont change castor rods, my only problem with changing lower arm is that to get negative camber i will have to also increase the track, something i cant afford to do as i cant put flares on the car and tyres will scrub

be careful adding track to the front as if you push the bottom out to much it puts great stress on castor rods and breaks them not a thing you want happining at 90mph!!!

Do you mean bottom arms? As castor rods are mounted in a rubber fitting factory, athough it is common to fit rod ends to stiffen everything up.

what im saying is that when you make the track wider it puts more angle and pressure on castor rods (rods that go into the rubber bushing at front )if a big jolt happens they can break and the wheel goes flying back into the arch and goodby steering