the weight distribution of my car when I had it on scales a few months ago is 54.4% Front 55.5% Rear. Almost identical to the standard 1200's weight distribution with the A series motor.

Handling is the car's real strength on the racetrack. Now it's pretty damn good on the straights as well.

best motor for 1200? ford ztec (i know "boo hiss") 180hp standard and 70 kg. Now that sounds good hp to weight

hey L18_B110 ,

Did the Lblock add much weight to the front of the B110? How is the road stability with it?

I've seen a breif tech article on an A series speedway engine running methanol, mechanical injection, massive compression and headwork. I'll see if I can find it...

My current L18 (1995cc) has about 137bhp at the wheels at 6700rpm when it was in the 1600. It may have a few more bhp now that its in my car with my exhaust system (and I suspect slightly more efficient drivetrain - there's alot less power sapping uni joints in my drivetrain), but we're planning on going back to the dyno soon...

a bloke i stumbled accross, uses em in sprint cars, tell yawhat he knows his a series stuff pretty damn well, if i get a motor built he is doin it, but he's just a guy building his own car at home he isnt a proffesional mechanic or anything

Mike,
Where is this 1200 engine? Thats a massive 165 - 170 hp/litre!!!!!

NA a15 should do it, with say 4000 sunk into it

i know of a guy getting 220hp from an a-12 (can rev beyond 10,500), it has an E15 cross flow head and all sorts of crazy stuff done to it, but hey it shows that 150hp from an a-15 should be easy as pie

The L20 bored to 2.4 is legal, in theroy or by law it isnt but no one will know this, as it is a L20 block and head, so no way a cop would no if the pull you over. not even a enginerr would know as they dont care whats done internally and they would never bother taking it apart and checking. so would could go the 2.4L.

what do you want?? if your looking for a NA motor to pull over 100rwkw then a Lseries could pretty easily i know of a couple of local NA A15s here with that many kw's but there has been serious cash thrown at them to get 100kw + at the wheels.

Hey Tom, the prep work on the short motor was done by a reputable blown engine builder and I fabricated most of the add-ons. The blower mounts, inlet manifold, water-injection and stuff like that was all done with the help of a mate.

Total cost after all dyno time and tuning was around the $AU5000 mark, but this included replacing all the front end components as well- sway bars, bushes, brakes, radiator, thermo fans, heater hoses etc. Also included forged internals, balancing, re-grind of cam and a massive port job...

A bit pricey but you could get away with it for around $1500 if you were a bit handy and didn't do the lot. I am confident that I could throw a turbo on this motor and run up to 20psi through it. Which I may do a little later on...?

If you need any other details PM me and I will be happy to provide...

in regards to a rotary, unless i put a 10A (rare as rocking horse ####) in a Datto, i could not engineer a rotor (turbo or N/A) in NSW.

oh, and in regards to the TORQUE issue.
I too would rather useable horsepower ie. more torque, but 100Kw at the wheels just seems to roll off the tongue

Cheers,
Tom