Just to add to the picture, the factory mags used on Chrysler Valiants & Datsun 200B's [810] along with Bluebirds [910] use a tapered face shank nut.

I have often wondered why the two factory setups went this way & i still don't know, but perhaps it more accurately centers the wheel.

I got me some shank nuts from supercheap today, $60 for 16, and the wheels are on, lookin great, but car darts around the road when under heavy breaking from about 80k...not very reassuring...

Not all aftermarket wheels use shank nuts, though, so it may be best to bring them by your local tire shop to ask them if you're not sure what you're looking at. If the wheel's countersunk for each lug nut chances are you're not going to use shank nuts.

Thanks for the tips, i reckon I'll be lookin for shank nuts then :)

here's a shank nut for you

there are 2 different types of wheel nut, mag nuts, and chamfer nuts
You need the mag nuts (shank nuts) that are like a long tube shape one end and then the hex nut the other end.
Chanfer nuts are like standard wheel nuts and have a taper where they seat on the rim

Thanks for the info, rang Autopro and they said they could get them in for me, is $7-8 what I should be paying?
btw, what are shank nuts? what do they do?

Tyrie

you should be able to order longer studs from somewhere like repco etc.

the hole should be a touch bigger as to let the nut centralise the wheel hole to the stud and provide a dovetail face grip to the stud hole.

Sounds like you might need shank nuts.

G'day all,
I've just got my hands on some 13 x 6 wheels for my 120Y and the centre part where the studs go through is quite thick (3cm) and I cant get the wheel nuts onto the studs once the wheels are on. Do I just need longer studs or something more complicated. Also, the stud-holes in the wheels are a bit bigger than the stud diametre, should this make a difference?
Any info would be much appreciated.