Well I replaced the fuse last night and it did the trick. The anti-diesel solenoid and the auto-choke both now work properly - and the fuse didn't blow. The car runs like a dream as well. I probably need to tune it up following the advice in the manuals and tech article, but it's a 5x improvement over how it ran before. Thanks for all your help!!
michael

Thanks - I found the key for the diagram which explains the colors (and a few more useful things!)

Well DD I hadn't seen the tech article on carbs - I saw the one describing the different carbs but not the tune-up one. Very helpful!

Well I took a jumper wire home with me last night and did verify that in fact the anti-dieseling solenoid was not getting power. I jumpered it straight to the battery and got the "click" I was looking for. So I cranked her up and HELL YEAH she purred like a kitten! Very exciting to finally her it idling smoothly and actually having the idle adjustment screws work on the carb. So I got out the wiring diagram again and traced it back to the fuse box. And of course I found a blown fuse (which by the way also controls the auto-choke which was not working on the old carb which I assumed was just dead). Tonight I'll pick up some fuses and see if I can get it to work but I have a feeling I'm going to have to seach out the source of the problem ie why the fuse is blown. The wiring has been hacked up a bit in this car - not horrible but bad enough to be a pain.

Who knows, maybe I didn' tneed the new carb anyway but I've already got it so I might as well make the best of it. I belive I've already voided the warranty by a little "mod" I had to make to get it to work on my car (they didn't send the exact right one...) Oh well, I've got another one to rebuild some day if I decide to screw with it.

Well thanks DD for the tip (I should have listened to you earlier but I didn't understand) and your help also dingdang. I'll post an update if/when I find the source of the electrical problems.
Michael

L means blue
YR Means yellow with a red trace (line)

You haven't read the Carb article in our tech section? It discusses the anti-diesel valve.

Quote:Yes, my A12 has the problem as we speak. It's highly annoying. Unfortunately my carb does not have the anti-diesel solenoid valve. Some engines don't have the problem.

You can remove the piston without cutting anything. It won't hurt anything, except remove the anti-diesel function. Your engine may not need it. Depends on if it runs off or not.

hey ddgonzal,
So it sounds like this valve is normally closed (when up-powered). From the diagram it looks like a simple piston that stops a gas line I suppose. If I'm not able to get power to it, would it be a problem if I just took the solenoid out, cut off the piston with a hack-saw and put it back in? Is post-engine-shut-off dieseling really a problem?

That would be a last resort. I'm trying to figure out from the wiring diagram what voltage the solenoid needs (ie regulated or unregulated battery voltage). Here's a pic of the diagram below (or go here for a higher res version 248kb large diagram I've looked over it quite a bit and the only solenoids I see are on this page and are called the "Throttle Opener Solenoid", "Fuel Cut Solenoid" and the "Vacuum Cut Solenoid". I'm guessing it's one of the first two. Any idea which it would be? The wires colors I guess are L and YR - not sure what this means but the wire on my car was either red or green, I can't remember. Thanks,
Michael

Amazing what a sandblast on the carbie will do..........makes it look like new.

The anti-diesel valve controls the idle. When there is no electricity to it, it stop the flow of fuel through the idle circuit.

Yes, with key on, engine off, there must be electricity to the valve. So if it's not clicking that's most likely the cause of the idling problem.

Hey dd,
I just went out and checked and I couldn't here any clicking when the wire to the anti-diesel valve was connected or disconnected. I couldn't do it while the engine was running but the key was in the ignition and turned all the way clockwise. Should there be a constant voltage on the wire going to the valve? Or do I have to check for the clicking while the engine is running? I could put a brick on the accelerator.

By the way, I was able to get it to idle earlier but it's still very rough. If you drop off the gas real quick it dies, or sometimes just dies when stopped. I don't know the RPM because my tach doesn't work. I went aroudn the block, and stopped the engine when I got home to come in here to check this post. When I just went back out to check the clicking thing it wouldn't idle anymore. Just drops down and stops when the gas is let off.

BY the way, I think the float is OK. It's right about the center of the sight. ON your 3 step procedure above, I don't know how do you adjust the mixture? ALso what is a good starting point for the idle adjust screw? ALl the way in and then back out a couple of turns? I've messed with it so much I don't know where to start. And lastly, should the engine be able to idle without any pull on the throttle, or is it OK to adjust the throttle cable to give it some gas with your foot off the pedal? If I did that I could probably make it drivable at least (ie wouldn't die at every stop sign). But in general, shouldn't it idle without using the throttle at all? Thanks again for your help!
Michael

With a new carb, there are three things you want to do:

1. Adjust float level. This has to be done first because it affects the next steps

2. Warm up engine even if you have to keep foot on for 5 minutes. Then adjust idle speed screw to about 750 rpm

Some of newer carbs have a vacuum- or electrical-energized idle stop. This acts directly on the throttle linkage.

3. Finally, adjust idle-mixture. Then re-adjust idle speed. Then final adjust idle mixture

Don't worry too much about the emissions stuff, it shouldn't affect idle (other than the anti-diesel and idle stop, and keep the EGR blocked off (as in your picture) to test, and all the vacuum ports blocked).

You did verify the anti-disel valve 'clicks' right? Just having the wire hooked up is no guarantee ...

get ya skirt off! through in a SR no carby problems! oh and did i mention quik