Sorry found that the l13/4/6/8 have the same deck height and L20b is 20mm taller and 15-30kdgs heavier but could take 2.4 litres with a Z24 crank if you made the effort to fit one in a 1k.

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that depends if the throttle body / carby is in front of or after the supercharger.
if it's after then i would install a BOV to be safe, but if it's in front then the throttle isn't posing a restriction when shut so you wouldn't need one.

i'm not THAT hard up for grunt but would just like more, and had the option of a cheap tough L20.
The Rotor route was looking promesing but a 12A is really hard to find and even harder to get parts for. A 13B turbo on the other hand is a little expenceive and my car would be a maniac! not that thats a bad thing but a 600kg ute with a 12B turbs and a lokka is not a car i would like to be driving in the wet everyday to work....though i'd sure give it a go.
I think the conclution i have arrived at is an A14 or 15 turb's or supercharged.
hey another question....if a supercharged engine has a BOV when your foot comes of the throttle does the BOV just keep shooting out the excess boost? because if the engine is still revving hard the chargers still making the boost....just one of my midnight thoughts. hehe

if your really that hard up for grunt, go the rotary route. not datsun... but light, compact, and heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaapps of grunt!!!!!!!

You could always stick to your guns and dare to be different. If you can get a tough good L20 for next to nothing, maybe it is worth contemplating abit more. Way up the costs involved with any engine. If you discuss it over with an engineer and they are happy to certify it, whats to stop you? Whats it all cost for you to build a tough A series etc? Whats it cost to put coil overs in the front of the 1000 and make up a new crossmember and draglink that will meet engineer approval and solve the height problem of the L20 all in one?
Look at the costs before you pass it up.
Maybe then you could put that briefcase of extra money ( if there is any )in the back to overcome the weight issues.
Just some thoughts.
Cheers Steve.

a had a 2door 1000 for a couple of years that i built with a fairly worked A14, had a A12GX head port/polish and L16 exhauast valves, double valve springs balnced bottom end, extractors, 2 1/4 exhaust, twin 40mm dellortos, 1600 disc brake front end and 120y diff assembly(couple inches wider than 1000) sprung button clutch and 5spd. of the 4 dattos and couple other cars i've owned she was the sweetest. revved to mid 8000s and didn't miss a beat
personal opinion - stick with an A series, easy swap, easy to make go fast and damn cheap to fix
no offence to the fuel injected newer engine conversions but the sound of twin 40's wide open . . . . a joy to the ear

gee i miss her

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the 4AGZE chargers are SC12s and aren't really suited for a L20B 2.0L engine - almost being stressed out in std trim on the 1.6L.

however, toyota got it right with the SC14 on the 2.0L 1GGZE which is capable of feeding 6psi into a 3.8L commy V6. these chargers are a much better option because they don't have to be overdriven as hard to produce the same amount of boost - and they work particularly well in a draw thru application.

however, if you plan on putting one of these babies on an A series, then you'll need to back the pulley sizes off a fair bit from std because the engine won't consume enough air to keep boost at a sane level.

so to sum it up you could

A series - SC12 with factory toyota pulleys or "under"driven SC14

L series - SC14 with factory pulleys.

Quote:Well, if your looking for more cubic inches, then get the A15. It's better than the others unless perhaps you are trying to build an over-8500-rpm engine. Read up on the a-series in Best Engine.

Thanks boys,
for all your advice, its just that i had never seen a 1200 or 1000 with an L20 in it before and a mate taking a worked one out of his 1600 and replacing it with an SR so i could get a worked (twin webbers, balanced ported) L20 for next to nothing. But by the sound of thing it would be better to stay with the A series. Just Jap they have AGZE superchargers for like 300 bucks, how easy is this to chuck on the side of an A series, Also my 1000 already has a A12 in it and im lookin for some more cubes, do i go for a A13, 14, or 15? it seems as though 13's and 14's are the most desirable, what did these come in? ar are they just bored A12s.
Thanks for helpin a nubie.

All L series will need clearancing but best is the L16 which will fit but an L20 wont as discussed before unless you run a giant power bulge as dodge said and then the handling will suck big time as the thing will sit way to high and its much heavier than the other smaller Ls specially if the latter L20 is used with the extra webbing. V6 is a different story as even a chev v8 has been in a 1000 (iron chev 250kg plus or v6 alloy nissan vg30 160kg plus) but they arent as high as the tall mother L20. Trust me a good a14/15 will scare you if well sorted otherwise an L16 with L18 crank or l13 with clearanced l16 crank will be possibly a lighter engine with the balls of the l16 or even the L18 crank if the L16/l18 blocks are the same height as previously discussed with Harry but best ask him or feral. The L13 engine has bigger everything and the oversquare design with L16/l18 crank will scare you back to driving corollas.
Also the L series engine can take a twin plug crossflow head design from the Z18/T engine for extra flow and performance.