I am planing to do an E15 dizzy conversion. I'll talk to Barry at quality rebuilds, when he gets back to work, and see what he thinks. There is a low buck solution, I just have to put some time into figuring it out. I think that a bit of trial and error should work it out. I posted this to see what everyone else had done. I wont be driving it too far without unhooking the feed to the blower clutch. I don't want to crack a slug. (If I haven't already)

Bart,
Step 1 , have you accurately identified where TDC is and do you know exactly how much advance you are running?
With the Turbo car ( low compression ) I ran a fixed 30degrees total- primitive by todays standards but it worked although I would hasten to add that was back in the days of good old leaded 96, not the cr#p that we get served up today.
Do not drive the car again until you get this sorted - there really is no quicker way to kill an engine.
Talked to Colin Grey? He's very good on dissies and would be an excellent place to start before you charge off buying anything.
Cheers
Dave

I think for modifications like this you will be lucky to find a shop that does it. Its more something that a racer would stuff around with himself.
If you can get push/pull actuators I am sure you could make it fit. But I can picture the actuators arm interfering with the pickup when it pushes to retard. This could be overcome by shaping the arm to go around it, but it would probly require milling out of the dissy housing to stop it hitting there.
I think the cost would come close to that of having another dissy machined to fit the desired engine.

Below is a pic of my centrifugal advance after being locked. On the left the hole is brazed up completely to prevent movement. ( My ignition is computer controled.)
This distributor was used in another car and the hole on the right was previously filled a little to limit advance.

I was talking to a racer mate of mine yesterday, he said that another trick was to build up the travel stop for the mech advance with bronze to limit the advance to a safe level.

1200RC, PM me how much you want for that dizzy.

Yes, that's a B310 distributor which all US B310s got the electronic version like this.

The dual-vacuum unit is less common, mostly it was on California-model cars due to California's most strict emission laws.

yep thats it

Does it look a little like this?

the one i has just has boost retard, it has been completly modified, there is a mechanical advance set up with weighting, but when boost comes on it retards the timming, no vacuum advance at all, i had it done by a proper dizzy mob and it cost somewhere between 200-300 including rebuilding the dizzy,

i also have a factory electronic dizzy from a US model which allows you to hook up boost retard, i got it after i had my dizzy done, but it looks preety shaggy, would be best to rebuild, best thing is most of its part numbers match those of the non electrical dizzy sold here, like cap and rotor button etc, i'd be prepared to part with it

The Mitsi cordia turbo or datto Z18T canisters connect to the down stream side of the butterfly.
The advance/retard (breaker) plate in the dissy is sprung to a centre neutral position and connectes to the diapraghm by a link arm.
Under vacuum the canister moves the link arm in the advance direction for spark timing, but under boost, pushes the opposite way to retard by up to 6 - 8 degrees.

I have a couple of dissys modded this way but it expensive to have done. Phunkdocta could give some idea of costs.

sounds worth looking into.
Are you able to find out how many degrees they retard by?