well there you go. As per "Converted" bigger rear drums may be required.

I used to use 180B (610) wagon drums on my 1200 Ute diff.

I have solid stanza disks on front with rear H165 drums a proportioning valve and a master cylinder build to proportion the brakes properly. I can flog the car allday on the track without even a hint of fade. Dattodude on the street the rear brake may only work 20% of the time but in racing they work about 45% of the time. In an open wheeler, you find that the rear braking mechanism is usually identical to the front. The car has less pitch under brakes than a road car therefore more braking can be used at the back. Same is true for any modified suspension in a car. The front springs on my coupe are rated at 300lbs and the inserts are koni race therefore there is less pitch forward and the rear brakes can have more bias. As you can see it is a delicate science, balancing off one single modification unto the rest of the chassis. I love the art of racing physics!!!!

Sounds like the master cylinder and calipers need a reconditioning kit put on them. I reckon though, that one of your calipers has seized..

As for handbrake, The 1200 cables stretch, for full lockup, the best approach would be to install a non-1200 setup, and/or a hydraulic handbrake.

The 1200 handbrake will only work best when the rear drums are trimmed up (adjusted properly) and the handbrake cables are adjusted to suit.

The 1200 handbrake mechanism was only ever meant to stop the car from rolling away.

oh yea cheers that helps out a bit, its for dirt so sorta need ok ones, could you think why that my right front works but my left front doesnt, i know fluid gets there couse i bleed them on both sides..... if it is not the seals in the pistons do you know what it might be???
and how hard is it to tighten the hand brake so it actually makes the wheels lock up?
cheers man

Depends what kind of racing you are doing.

For brakes you need to consider a few things:
1. What wheels are you going to run
2. Minimise strut, caliper and disc weight
3. Minimise brake fade by having big enough brakes.
4. Minimise cost by using commonly available components.

Simplest option is to convert to A10 stanza lower arms and balljoints. Then get some 260Z struts. Use the tops/thrust bearing from the 1200 struts.

Leaving the back drums is fine, they only do 20% of the work, and leaving them alone, provides for a good working handbrake mechanism.

Upgrading to larger drums or discs on the back, should be considered candles on the birthday cake.

there is such a thing as too much brakes on a race track.. On the street, you can never have enough. Handling comes second to stopping power when an emergency stop is required in traffic. $1000/ accident avoided. In my old datto, I avoided several accidents due to good brakes!

ps. if you have crap brakes now, don't be convinced to go all out at this point. Even stock brakes would feel good for you right now.

another question about brakes, how hard would it be to upgrade to R31 brakes onto a 1200?? much welding involved or would i be better going with a 1600datsun setup would there be much work to do there or should it match up pritty close??? my mean machine needs some brakes as only he front left works :s.
and does it make a differnce if you hve drums on the back compared to disks.
cheers!!