Quote:
There is no need to connect them up to anything. If a wire has +ve with the key off - it is a constant power supply. If the key is at ACC - it is an ACC +ve supply. If the key is at ON - it is an IGN +ve supply ( IGN as in ON not ignition pulse)
Also make sure that the +ve supply isnt a result of a heater, wiper etc switch being in the on position. Naturally if it is, it means that's what the wire is for.
You can check for earth like this too, by changing heater, wiper etc switch positions.
( But if a wire at any point has +ve it will not be a -ve wire even if it lights up as being one)
To see if a wire is for a dash warning light/guage, put the test light clip on earth and test the wire. If the guage goes up - thats the wire for that guage. If the dash warning light glows a little - thats the wire for that light.

thanks phunk.

yeah nissan have kept thebasic colour code from the P510 / 180B / 240K / 240Z / 240C. however, it looks as though it has been re-wired at some stage - the electrical tape is new-er looking than the rest of the stuff but i'm hoping the autosparky would have just copied what was there. it "seems" right and the tester light confirms this. i know where i have to hook the thermos up to and fuel pumps on the ign switch too.

i've sorted out so far what was the washer motor, coil / condensor / resistor, water temp but there are 2 plugs (as mentioned previously) that i just can't for the life of me work out what goes where.

so anything that lights up on +ve is power? so just hook it up to +ve and run with it?

i was gonna try a 15A fuse in the thermos first and up it from there - they seem to draw a sh1tload of current.

Firstly dont get carried away and confuze yourself. If a wire has +ve at any one position of the ignition switch, it is a power wire. The ign position will tell you if the wire is ign, acc or start +ve.
Most power wires will show up as -ve when they have no power, as it will feedback through whatever to earth.
Now think about what was in the enginebay;
wiper motor, windscreen washer?, starter, alternator and reg, air-con?, horn, dash warning lights, auto neutral start switch, reverse light switch etc.
I would think nissan would have kept a basic colour code? a quick look at a few different model datsun wiring diagrams will say yes or no and should give you an idea of what went where.
For the thermos, just connect an ammeter in series with the power supply and this will say how much current they draw.
I would think 1 would draw close to 25 - 30 amps.
As for the immobiliser. ? There are to many kinds to say this wire goes to this.

Sorry dude,

Can u clear a few things - this is your 240 right? Are you using the 240 or the Toyota wiring loom (that came with the engine)? Or another?

Let me know and I'll think about it

TC

need some help with my wiring.

i've found my main power feed, and that's hooked up to +ve.

i have lights (minus park - sep circuit...?), brakes, indicators, fan, interior lights, fuel guage and factory AM radio with remote switch...

now to the engine bay. one wire disappears under booster and presumably to my ignition. out of the same harness --->

i've got a +ve on 3 wires with ign to ON
i've got 2 of those ^^^ wires still lighting up when switched back to ACC, and the last wire drop out. however, when the last wire is tested on -ve with ACC, it lights up.

i've also got a whole bunch'o' wires on a sep. harness that light up when ON and ACC (about 7 of the lil' bastards) and tested on -ve but show nothing on +ve.

what fuse do a pair of 10in thermo's take? i've been thru 2x 10A fuses.

last of all - WHERE THE HELL IS MY IMMOBILISER HOOKED UP TO? i can't make that bitch flash for the life of me.

please help! if you're in WA i have a carton waiting for the person who can either
a) hook it up, or
b) send me in the right direction to hook it up myself.

cheers y'all