The vanette clutch plate is the same diameter and the pressure plate has a stronger clamping force. And it will bolt straight on.
The part numbers are the same for the clutch plates but you must ask for the vanette pressure plate which has a different part#.
I had one in mine but it couldn`t handle my supercharged engine. I now run a larger diameter Exedy clutch plate (190mm) after machining the step from the flywheel, and I use a Mitsubishi pressure plate.

Thanks Guys
So the clutch face surface is in the same place on the two? Does anyone have any info on the vanette clutch, is it bigger or does it just have a higher clamping pressure?

I can tell you that the A10 flywheel is even lighter still. To make it take the larger A12 & onward clutches involves machining a bit across the whole face of the flywheel down to the bottom of the grove that defines the diameter of the A10's smaller clutch plate.
While it's in the lathe, just take a little off the back as well & you end up with a nice little "street weight" flywheel. Well, it worked for me, & i've still got it.

Yep i can verify that a A12 flywheel WILL work and fit on an A15 as this is extacly what ive done. My A15 ring gear was shagged so just took the A12 flywheel to the dude and he said yeah they all fit and did a lovley lighting job for me.

And yeah it is MUCH thicker i reckon, like real fat around the middle of the wheel and much deeper aswell. If you notice (if you have one) on the A12 flywheel it doesnt have the huge lumps just below the ring gear as the A15 one does, thus making it lighter...

If my memory serves me right, when i weighed my stock A15 flywheel was about 9.8 - 10.2kg (i think) and my A12 one was about 8.7 - 9.1kg ?? does this sound right? But its now 5.2 kg so bit of a difference

Verification on that, over??

Dave

Quote:

Can anyone verify that the A12 flywheel will fit an A15. I was going to fit one on my A15 but was hoping to use the bigger diameter clutch (which apparently came on the C20 vanettes) My engine is currently getting balanced, so don't want to find out later that it won't fit. If the A15 flywheel is bigger, where does it get its weight from? is it thicker? which if it is would it not offset the position of the clutch assembly?

Cheers

Damon

Good on you for sorting it out. Give it one more oil change after about a thousand K or even a thousand miles to help ensure that the dislodged sludge that you didn't get before, doesn't fill up the filter. Use the colour of the oil on the dipstick as a guide.

When it comes to induction, it's obvious that a low level setup will work best. This would include twin SU types, which can mean factory A14GX induction if you can find one. Other choices include single or twin Webbers/ DelOrtos/ Solexs. The single carb setup will be lower in cost, easier to tune & will provide overall better driveability if your coupe is strictly street.

Talk to a REPUTABLE cam grinder once you have decided on all of the other engine parts. They have a vested interest in making the right recomendations & they know you will tell all your mates, particularly if it's a bad choice.

My thoughts for a street engine would include Twin SU types, or single Webber [etc] plus tri Y [4-2-1] extractors & & a moderate cam. This is a mild setup, but will return good street performance without being unreliable or undriveable. Your wallet will still be your friend at the service station too.

P.S. See if you can use a 1200 /A12 flywheel as these are lighter than the A14/15 ones

ok what i did was get each piston right on compression stroke tdc and check where the rotor was facing in the dizzy, to make sure facing the right lead. then i adjusted all the tappets like that. and it fired straight up. I think it was way out how i had it, baqckfiring and all.

if u remember i had to do all this becuase i cooked my motor and warped my head....
I can attest dodgemans way of cleaning the water/oil sludge "choc-milk" with 1/3 kero and oil worked a treat. it really dislodges the sludge when it gets nice and hot too after fast idling for 10-15 mins. better than 3 or 4 oilchanges and filters for sure!

the extra compression, shaved 60 thou or 1.5 mm makes it a lot harder to turn the motor by hand, but not much more if any acceleration. probably a touch more torque.

Im thinking of carbs cam and headers now, whats the best value combo for an A14 in a KB10, keeping in mind clearance under bonnet and engine bay???

Like LB_B110 says, unless you have removed the timing case & messed with the cam or its drive, then the cam timing will be fine. You MUST re-adjust the tappets before attempting to start the engine after any head work.
As long as all the valves go down & up again, the sequence of valve movement will be good.

the "just screw it all back down" comment made me think you hadn't adjusted the tappets.
did you loosen off the tappets when disassembly or reassembly, or are they the same as when you took the head off?

well its really hard to turn over by hand, so must be plenty compression... it looks wrong to me, like the first 4 valves all basically closed??? cant be right can it??