Hey guys i am the other guy in the project, we are not going to run the ass out of the motor as yes we want a little reliability and there is no way we will get that with 14psi for sure , as it is the fuel has been sorted with a 4-6psi pump, the head is going to be decomp with a A14 head and thick gasket, L20 valves i am tryin to find out if they will fit or we will just get double's for it, and there is no way we are converting it to lpg no matter what the gains may be, as for the comment of the waste of a good datto , we dont think so as it will be a race car so if thats a waste to you but a gain for us sorry... if we blow it up as stated there are A14 flattop pistons to go in it so the cost is cheap as they dont have to be made oversized just take the block out to suit...already checked that out, as for the diff it will be welded with torsion bars and a brace put in for good measure which is all going to be made by ourselves, if it blows there will be a bluebird diff for replace, by our calcs as we have both owned datto's there will be a good chance the car will survive the batterin it is going to get as it wont be strangled throttle open gettin off the line at the drags , launch is going to be a key to keeping the car in one piece and not detonating either the motor or the rest of the drive line....... feel free to reply with info but don't try burst our bubble with no you cant do it , thats no help to us try recommending something a little better that we have planned already.... CHEEERS

EFI turbo L series thread from OZDAT

i know it's got to do with L series, but it will give you a basis on how to start.

if you want to do a carby turbo system then i recommend running it on LPG after having a chat with a few people of late on this.

if you run the water line from the heater line, to the convertor and then onto the turbo, the convertor doesn't freeze by using engine temp water AND you get cold water for your turbo after it's been thru the convertor

add to that the 106 RON and ability to run more boost / more aggresive timing means power all the way.

and forget dual fuel...

Thanks for all the positive and negative and ridiculassss comments(20psi?????) But the car in question is rooted let alone getting it fixed for roadworthy..... both floor pans will be replaced and the whole arse end above the fuel tank including the tail light area and the sides and doors and......etc so it really is just a fix up and race and hope it doesn't blow up to soon, but got a spare auto motor and auto plus another spare engine so I'm just trying to get info on how the set up of the turbo should be and I have a few ideas now....keep them coming

just wait till the datsun bug bites.... they'll be addicted, and will make sure they're datsun gets the best treatment available. It happened to me

Quote:

it prob hasn't even been rebuilt yet. so if it doesn't die by the end of the week, it will once turbo'd or cammed / carbed up.

who cares if it blows? these engines are so cheap to rebuild that even if you did smash a piston a whole set of HE's only costs $AU175 and that will handle 1bar no sweat with an A14 head etc etc.

don't sweat the petty things dude

Quote:Well, i guess i see it from a diferent angle.
All i see is a perfectly good engine, in a bloody good car being screwed on the cheap for a few laughs.
With boost figures of 15lbs being mentioned, yet not a single sentence on detonation control, all being done by people who don't really know what thy're doing, i see an engine being reduced to scrap in short order. Once the engine's gone, & the novelty wears off, i wonder what will be the fate of the car, as it seems to have received scant attention here.
Along with cheap mega performance, there seems to be no interest in upgrading the chassis to handle it. The focus just seems to be on cheap thrills at what i suspect will be the cost of another of our beloved Datsuns in the end.

Please prove me wrong.

For the price of a little A 12 I would get the turbo and all hooked up and boost the hell out of it !!! with good fuel should see at least 15psi I would go 18-20+psi whats the worst that can happen pop a head geasket??
Give it a go and let us know how it handles it all.
If in Doubt run even more boost

Quote:

huh?

you don't need a BOV in a draw thru setup at all.

the butterfly is IN FRONT of the compressor, not after it. so shutting the throttle off isn't going to cause any problems with flow reversion, or "compressor surge" as you put it.

having a BOV in a draw thru setup would have fuel spewing all over a hot engine bay on every gear change. it's okay if you like fireworks i guess...

and like A14Force said, get a decomp shim and run 1bar thru it til it breaks, then rebuild it so it doesn't. why piss around with 5psi?

A series engines are stronger than most people give them credit for. and if you do break one, a whole engine rebuilt can be had for under $500.

have fun

Don't write off drawthrough just yet!!!!
You don't need a blowoff valve, when you shut the throttle butterfly, the engine uses all the air/fuel in the system, leaving only vaccuum. Then when the turbo starts to spool again, the compreesor wheel is not trying to turn against a mass of compressed air, so no lag problems.
You can buy a decomp shim off the self. I think it's made by permaseal.