Yeah!! that's what I'm talking about : Dattoman_1000 Quote:

I dont know about the specifics of the conversion, but presumably you do it because the stanza calipers have bigger pistons (and bigger disks) than the standard 1200 ones. have a look at the difference in size between the stanza pistons and standard 1200 ones. 1cm in extra piston diameter will be a lot in terms of surface area, and consequently a lot of extra fluid displacement to make things happen... the specs of the stock 1200 pistons should be pretty easy to find (you upgraded from drums, yeah?), Anyways, I could just be spinning s**t here so you beter check the stuff the brake specialists say first

Quote:

That's my photo and mastercylinder

You might be happy to hear that the brake line in the picture was replaced..due to dodgy flare.

My newest research: I looked at a Sunny master cylinder, and it has disc/drum combination. Both lines had the same "seal/spring thing", with the same tension spring. I was expecting that the spring/seal thing would be different from the front to back. They weren't. I'm still running with no spring/seal in my rear line. The brakes are good, but not bedded in enough yet for me to give any accurate news.

You need to mod the master to suit discs.
This is essential.
.

That little black valve needs removing.

Change the pads
While your doing that get someone to gently put their foot on the brake....... not to hard.
Make sure all the pistons move.... then push the pistons back and fit the new pads.... pump it up. Watch the pistons and see that they don't "roll back" too far when you release the pedal.
If they roll back noticably (more than .5mm) then thats your prob.

Master cylinder might be too small depending on which caliper you used too


Thanks to GS for the stolen pic.

Are you losing brake fluid? Your master cylinder could be leaking back inside the booster. You would have to pop it off & have a look. Did the brake specialist try pressure bleeding. I think thats what its called. Apparently they have a machine that forces any air out of the lines. Another thing I have been told is that brake fluid won't do its job if it has absorbed water from the air. If you had the car sitting around this may have happened. The last thing is your booster. I had one rebuilt once & they didn't put it together properly & I had similar problems (Scared the hell out of my dad when he drove it).

If you don't get anywhere maybe ring someone like Hoppers Stoppers. They do a lot of conversions & may be able to help. Good luck.

how would i know they are in right ....dont they just go in one way only????

valves in master cylinder????? i havnt takin it of..i havnt touched the master cyl at all ....its the stock one........where and what are these valves???

That dosn't sound right. Check that the piston and seals are in right and did you check the little valves in the master cylinder you should have one in one pipe and none in the other.
olboy

the car has a tandem master cylinder ....and it worked perfectly with the drums......

i bled the master cylinder and it has heaps and heaps of air and i thought that would have fixed the problem but...NO it still ants to do it

as for the master cylinder ....it holds pressure really well.....like if i pump the brakes up really hard and leave them over night....when i get in the car in the moring and push the pedal it will still be rock hard.....its only when i drive along that it looses pressure.......

thats why i am sorta agreeing with the brake "knock off"

ps i also noticed that on the outa side of the disc only half the pad is being used.....and on the inner side all the pad is being used??????
pps. i used the pads that came with the discs before i had them machined .....could this be possing a prob....they look to be in good condition???

thanks again for the help

I seem to remember that there are some little black rubber valves that you get with a master cylinder kit. They go in where the brake lines screw in. You either leave them out or put them in depending on weather you have disks or drums. I carn't remember which way. It has to do with the drums having springs to pull the shoes back and disks don't. They restrict the amount of fluid that returns back to the master cylinder. Was the master cylinder working on a drum/drum or disk/drum setup. You do have a double master cylinder don't you.
Olboy

Mate the best thing to do is put a brake line clamp on each flexable brake line then push the brakes. If the pedal goes rock hard then the air is in the calipers & the master is ok & has no air. If the pedal stays the same the air is in the master cylinder. Have a look under the master where it bolts to the fire wall if you can see traces of fluid running down the fire wall that means fluid is getting past the seals & the master needs o/haul or replace it with a new one. Dont fit a seal kit to a alloy cylinder without putting a steel sleeve in it.
The pad nock off is very unlikly cos if that was the case when you put your foot on the brake it would shudder that bad you wont beable to hang on to the steering wheel. If you find that the problem is air in the calipers try gravity bleeding that means leaving the bleeding nipples open & let the fluid drip out for a few hours or even a day but dont let the master run out. Some times i have found by pumping the #### out of brakes can make things worse. This works on old fords every time.
Good Luck
Mark

after bleeding the master cylinder the problem is still there.........so
im thinkin it could be the "pad knock off"
sumthing must be pushing the pads away from the disc so that i need to pump them to get them tight......but the discs have just been machined and the car doesnt vibrate when braking at say 100km/ph

as for booster....i have none
calipers are on the right side
brakelines are new

the pistons rolling back on the seals........um well i dunno about this.......should they be?????
i know i put brand new seals and pistons in .....but yeh thats all i know....


this is really great and i really appreciate the responses.....thanks again

fat