Dave

Worked like a charm!

Great idea, the bit of wood I found didn't even splinter, looks like hardwood....and was more than enough to hold back the crank.

Too easy - see the link for how it was done.

The way the pulley was defeated

Thanks again dave

Yup exactly where your finger is pointing, i just used an old piece of huon pine (i know its expensive but theres bits lying around my house) the wood bent and cracked but held its shape long enough to undo the bolt.

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Exactly, the woods gona get ripped to shreads or squashed before anything happens to the crank counterweights or surface of the connecting rods/piston caps...

Let us know how it goes!
Dave

Cool

I'll give it a go...was a little concerned about getting bits of wood in the engine, but 800C combustion temperatures should make fairly short work of any bits of wood that might get stuck in there....

I was also a little worried that I might do some damage to the crank, but thinking about it a bit more logically it is likely the wood will fail way before the metal is twisted, or damaged in any way. If a M8 bolt can take a couple of ton of force, I reckon a crank should be able to handle to 200Nm or so of torque required to undo the crank.

Thanks again for the advice, I'll have this engine built one day...

yep i recon it will work just give it a shot see wot happens dont think you will be able to do much damage with a bit o wood

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Hmmm this could work, so you mean put a bit of wood between one of the crank counterweights and the block, to stop the crank turning, and then undo and later do up the crank bolt.

Like where I am pointing in the picture below?

From the photos, the sump is off already, so a small block of wood between some convenient part of the crank and the block will stop the crank from turning.
A small block of dressed 3 x 2 pine will work wonders, then just use good ole' grunt and muscle power to loosen the bolt.

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You get what you pay for. Mind you a toy one would probably be fine for pullling off a front pulley.

I just take the oil pan off and get another breaker bar or hardwood or metal pole and jam it between the crank and side of the block, spray all surfaces of the crank nut and pulley with a lubricating spray like INOX, WD40 etc then use the breaker bar on the nut (27mm i think)
WACK or use your manly pure grunt and undo...

Thats what i do anyway, using screwdrivers dents and damages the pulley and timing cover.

Is this what you wanted?

Dave

yeah rattle gun works...
i bought a GMC compressor and rattle gun kit and hoes etc etc for $130 new....
I tell you what it makes short work of taking wheels off too....i hate doing that.

put two bolts in the fly wheel end grab a big srcew driver and move the rachet till its snug on the engine stand and break it loose that way.