do you know if your valves are sealing 100%?

i had the same problem with my E-15t motor, turned out 1 or 2 of the valves were not sealing.

did the head get skimmed at all? did they do a vacuum test on the ports?

So I'm a fool...

"Can you confirm those readings are with the throttle wide open..."

Now it's showing 154psi for cyl3 and 147psi for cyl4.

Doh, back to the ignition or carbs I guess.

The head came back, went back on, and life was produced. Joy and smiles aplenty.

In the process of trying to get it going smoothly we discoevered that cyls 3+4 were producing nothing in terms of power. Ctl 3 is not firing at all, and 4 is producing pops, but no power. Removing either/both plug leads for 3/4 does nothing to idle sound/speed.

New dizzy cap and rotor didn't solve anything. Swapping plugs and/or leads similar. Checked and adjusted vavle clearance (clearance probably larger than needed, rather than smaller)

Application of the compression tester produced:
1, 2, 3: 600kpa (or very close) == 85psi
4: 400kpa region == 56psi

Bearing in mind the engine was warm but certainly not 'normal running temp' (who wants to run up to temp on 2 cylinders?) I'm guessing I have problems down there. A good dose of oil in cyl 4 didn't achieve any noticable change.

I'm concerned that I may be jumping to the wrong conclusion though, since cyl 4 seems to be at least popping, but 3 nothing at all (not the other way round).

Thoughts?

The car went onto the dyno because I was having a little stutter in progression, thought that maybe they could help diagnose the webers. As it turns out they pointed me in the direction of the blown gasket.

Didn't ask how the power was calculated, but when the head is back on I'll take it back and get more info.

I'm told all they done was play about with the timing, though I don't see 30%-ish in timing alone. They are meant to be reputable, but I have no experience with them previously.

What is the before and after?

Are those figures at the rear wheels or flywheel?

For comparison, my A14GX did 50kw @ the wheels.

Shows you how much of an impact sideez have

Quote:

coolant is highly reccommended to replace the "water" when you get it back together

Looks to me like 1 and 4 were about to blow the gasket and 2&3 are looking a bit shetchy around the central water gallery. I have seen oval head gasket holes like that before on brand new gaskets- not sure if they were just cheap ones or if there is a reason for it.

Lot of oil in no3 and combined with the black exhaust valve and shiny bore methinks a full freshen up may be in order? cant see any ridges at the top of teh bore so glazing may not be too bad?

Certainly some good numbers out of it though!!! 70 somthin kW!!!
I'm assuming that is calculated back to the flywheel, not at the wheels

I've got the head off and put up a couple of pictures...







Anything that I should take particular note of?

The engine was blowing water out the gearbox end of the head/block interface (the left in head shot, right in block shot). The second cylinder appears not to be firing (black exhaust valve), the first has a nice furry valve which I guess is due to the water. On the block it appears the gasket has stretched out towards the ends of the blok from the first/last cylinder.

Just wondering if anyone notices anything else, since this is the first time I've done this sort of thing

About the only things of significance that are diferent betweem the A14 & the A15 are the crankshaft [5mm longer stroke] & the pistons [lower deck height to accomodate the increased stroke, & slightly bigger dish to keep compression within limits]
Even the rods are the same, so an A14 gasket kit should service an A15 engine.

I guess I know what I'm doing over the weekend then

Yes head gaskets between the A14 and a15 are the same.