solved...

well CDI re-installed today, I found out what probably started my problems... Bad cable going from HVC to dizzy... had very high resistance. D'oh@

ok, so back to tuning...

re-hooked up everything with solder and made it neater, zip-tying things out of the way in permanent homes

added amplifier switch yay no more dead batteries and tunes too!!!

when having weird ignition problems, make sure to check the spark plug wires, I think what happened is I had the main wire being held by the oil cooler hoses and I think that slowly cooked the HVC lead.

so bad cap, rotor, cruddy spark plugs, bad HVC lead, possibly bad CDI module, the HVC seemed dead as well when i switched modules.

The simplest things are the things we look over ,cause we alway's expect the worst

here's another one :)
Changed the rotor and that made a good bit of difference.

wouldn't it be funny if it was just 1) a burned rotor, 2) low on LPG, 3) fried the CDI coil 4) full moon madness...

things are never simple.

when i get the new CDI stuff i'll figure out why it died...

Must have been a very very weak spark then . maybe just enough to NOT ignite!!

I think what i learned here is that just because there is a "spark" doesn't mean it's going to make the engine run...

well i'm a silly person...
Fixed the car.
CDI will take the signal direct from the coil inside the dizzy.
nothing wrong with the dizzy...
CDI HVC seems to have died or something, using standard ignition now.

I'll have to check out the CDI coil and probably order another, but that would seem to be the end of my silly ignition problem.

if you have one of those non canister coils, make sure nothing touches the outside of the coil ( like the windshield washer pump...)

making progress...

i'm leaning towards thinking that the little black ignition module in the dizzy is bad. the wire that goes to the (-) side of the coil should do what? be at +12 and periodically dip to 0 right? My cdi ignition would work with the signal directly out of the dizzy without the ignition module, so maybe I try that tomorrow.

i had a couple times where the engine went blub and almost started, so hopefully get it fixed tomorrow.

also had to ground the CDI box, it wasn't and should be.

bypassed the ignition switch to make sure it wasn't a glitchy key switch, not much difference.

checked wires and the cdi had +12,ground, case ground, coil +/-,and the signal from where the - side of the coil was ( as it had been for months ) The only thing i'm unsure about is the signal from the dizzy, so i guess that's gonna be needed to be checked.

gonna figure this out.

Still investigating...

Can't get any signal from the coil in the dizzy, but that could be my multi meters ( FSM recommends analog meter [but that's all hey had back then] ) I have some signal because the CDI is getting a trigger signal. I may have a stupid problem... might have had the CDI module sitting on top of a grounded screw in the glove box, and maybe it moved and is no longer grounded.

CDI box seems to make a ticking sound for a second or two then the sound goes away.

I could easily put in the old coil and so may do that to figure out what is dead...

let us know cause I'm curious myself.

they said the spark was weak. I only use the ignition module as a trigger for my CDI system. I need to check if the unused wire for adding a tach is maybe grounding out or something.

I added the CDI after i was having missing at high rpm, that cured the missing. maybe the CDI system is messed up. I got the car back and i'll figure it out.

Whatever it is it's within my capability to fix. I'd like to think it's the ignition module in the dizzy.