if u want to impress keep slamming the clutch in and out itll bump the hp up a bit, my mates tuner did that so his car just out pipped other equally matched cars hahaha

Widget

Yea, it is also a Tazz.
I drove a couple of times with him.
The car is quite strong, BUT he has 15 inch wheels and BIG sound in the boot.
So I also think on the street I will at least keep up with him.
Heavy wheels and heavy sound = heavy weight.
My boot doesn't even have the jack and sparewheel in it to keep down weight.

Will let you all know what I get on the dyno.
Regards

Sup 1200

Even if he does beat u on the dyno im so sure dat u'l kick his ass on the road wer it counts. Dont kno how ur friends car runs but with my 1400 i kill a stock tazz from the line and on the freeway. And i dont have a champ, its a 1400 Standard.

Good luck anyways, let us kno wat happens. Perhaps after d dyno run url can have a go head to head on the road :D

R-fastmotorsport

Thanks for the reply.
You are correct. I am actually going to see what it gets on the dyno. It was never on the dyno and I just want to see how close I can get to the factory claimed 83hp at the flywheel. The engine is still quite fress.
About 40 000km on the new internals.

The thing is my friend has a 1300cc and I have 1200cc.
He has 12 valves and I have 8 valves.
He has a gasflowed cylinder head with 276 cam and I have a GX head with a GX cam.
I just want to give him a go with my output but think he is going to get much more as his car is front wheel drive and the GX is rearwheel drive. I think I am going to loose more power through the drivetrain.

I have had my share of impressing people.
My other friend has a Nissan 1600cc 16 valve carburator.
He could not get past me one night racing home from a friend's flat. He also could not get over it that he was unable to kick a 1200cc car's butt.
That was with normal points and condensor, standard exhaust and tires that gave me alot of resistance.(12 inch retreads.I now have 13's that offer quite less resistance).

I think the Toyota is going to beat me on the dyno but I want to be right on his tail with power output.

Hey there 1200GX,
all advice offered so far is very good and aims to get the best from what you have now. It is not always the HP figures that will impress - because the truth of it is that big HP from a little n/a engine may cost big $$ and/or much effort. I went to a dyno day with my coupe and belted out 89 rwhp , the turbo falcon following me put out around 240 rwkw The best part was that people watching the runs enjoyed the sight and sound of the little A series @ 7500 rpm, while the falcon made no noise, no excitement and got an "oh yeah, that's good"
In summary, enjoy the experience and use the data as a base for future improvements - the fact that your 28 year old car is there is a victory over the others anyway!!
Cheers

Quote:

Ok. I only know how to set the normal timing of 10 degrees. Can someone please explain the procedure as quoted above.
Can't I just set the 10 degrees timing to 11 degrees and see what happens?
Can I use normal 93 octane fuel with the setting or must it only be done with racing fuel and changed back to normal when using normal fuel again.

the 36 degrees Feral referred to is total advance. that is, your base timing (eg factory spec 10 degrees as you said) plus mechanical advance. It can be checked roughly enough with a timing light by bringing engine revs up until the timing stops advancing - normally somewhere around 3-3500rpm. You may need to mark the crank pulley to approx 35 degrees and check it against the zero (TDC) mark, because it will probably run off the factory timing marks which may stop at 20 degrees or something like that.

race fuels (eg Avgas) can also require jetting changes before any extra power is made. Just plonking Avgas in for a dyno run without changing other things can make the car run worse.

smaller wheels won't affect output on the dyno. dyno measures tractive force it experiences and the speed it is turning at the time. smaller wheels will increase tractive effort (by altering the gear ratio, aka torque multiplier), but reduce speed by exactly the same proportion. power will be unaffected.

Quote:

The colder plugs, can I use them with normal fuel and will they not cause the car to ping or burn valves or pistons?
And the gap of 1mm, will it also not burn something or overheat the coil.
My timing is currently set to the factory specs of 10 degrees. I saw you guys in Australia are talking about 36 degrees and 40 degrees. Can you please explain how this differ from our 10 degrees here in South Africa? It currently runs on 93 octane fuel but I am thinking of running 103 octane racing fuel just for the dyno run.

Thanks Feral.

You can get more power with race fuel but it really needs higher compression to take advantage of its potential. You may make a few extra Kw's at best with your setup.

Better mods would be fitting a very good cold air intake to the carbs and run the smallest wheel tyre combo you can.

Run a colder plug such as NGK BP7ES and set the gap to 1mm. Total ignition advance should be around 36 degrees on a 95 RON fuel.

Set your tappets to 0.014" inlet and exhaust and make sure this is done accurately even though they will be a bit noisier.

This should help a bit.
Good luck.

Hi all.

A friend of mine has a 1300cc Toyota.
12 valves and still carburator.
He gasflowed the cylinder head and put in a 276 cam and freeflow.

We are planning to take our cars to the dyno soon. I would like to look impressive for a 1200cc 8 valve and 28 year old car.
The balancing problems I complained about a few months back has been sorted out.
I now need advice to get max power on the run.
What do you guys think about racing fuel.
Can I use it for the run or will it not make a big difference.
I have installed a 2inch exhaust.
I have heard to get a bit more power I can increase my sparkplug gap because of the electronic ignition.
What gap would you reccomend and will it not overheat the coil or damage something?

Thanks