well my diffs at the diff shop and after speaking with the guy he kinda talked me out of it ....
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this is the best option for doing it at minimal cost but still not cheap if anyones interested in doing it. would be fine with my lowly A series but anything with a bit of power would likely be forever braking splines off

you can achieve enough misalignment in axle spines without running Cv joints , By getting the axles spines cut in a convex shape ,this means both ends of the axle spine are slightly smaller in outside and root diameter of the spine ,which then tapers up to your Standard spline dia in the center of the axle spline , your working on the ball end allen key idea again ,

I have one of these tricky setups in my race car. Its an L300 rear assy disk brake rear with 2 ratios 4:6 and 5:3. The centre is L300 with minispool. The way the minispool has been setup is that it has 2 Porsche 930 turbo CV's bolted together and then bolted to the crown wheel.
In the middle of the CV's are ford 9 inch 28 spline axle carriers.this allows for the axle assembly to be cut and shut to achieve around 1.5 degrees negative rear camber.
I can attest to the the hugely increased grip in the rear as opposed to the standard H165 I was running. I high speed corners it eliminates rear end twitch in mid corner.
The creator (John Taylor) of this setup told me it cost over $4500 to get done. It unbreakable in the surrent setup thanks God, as I dont want to ever fix it!!!
For the street I wouldnt bother, you are just simply not gonna push the car hard enough all the time to notice the difference.
If you are really keen on doing this, the poor mans way is to rune a weld across the top of the axle carrier and the cooling process will bend it like a banana until you get your desired camber. Otherwise do what b310GX suggests it sounds like a much more accurate and cost effective idea. If you are doing track work and its under $500 to do it...get it done, makes a big difference to rear grip

it works in that the axle is coming in at an angle but the spline edge is always parrallel to the spider gear axis.as the axle turns,the spline automatically keeps in the right relationship.think of it like the ballend sometimes put onto the long part of allen keys,so that you can put the allen key in at an angle,though not that radical.

How is that possibly going to work???

Remember that it has to spin on a fixed axis running down the line of the axle......

You could decrease the wear by slightly tapering the spline but you then decrease the amount of contact between the axle and the centre splines which would be more likely to strip the splines out.

would it be too hard to put a slight angle on the axle splines going into the spider gears? You'd have to have the splines recut to their original depth,but i got a company called graden gears here in sydney to increase the depth of the splines on a part from a gearbox & it cost bugger all. Even if you had to heat treat the splines again, any competant spring maker should be able to do this. I mean they were making leaf springs for a motorbike on American Chopper the other day & the heat treatmeat was simply cooling the heated spring in an oil bath.you could then bend the housing in a press & not wear out spider gears & axle splines.

From what I understand, bending the housing is just using the little bit of clearance between the axle and the diff centre SPLINES and using the splines as a sort of a uni joint. Even with the very slight angle I can imagine you would put a lot more wear on your diff centre and axles.

not loosing sleep over it yet
about to get a H165 fully rebuilt with one of topgears lsd's in it and thought i'd enquire while it was all apart. $3500 it's a little more than i'd spend for the benifits i'd gain.
i'm running out of things to do to spend money on it without going new motor and the likes so figured i'd concentrat a little more on the handling to get the most out of the A12
so if bending the diff loads the bearings would it effect the diff centre ??

It's not uncommon for a datto to have a little bit of negative on the back axle anyway. My sunny had -2/3deg on the left and -1/3 on the right at the last wheel alignment.
Unless you're building a sports sedan or something I wouldn't lose sleep over rear camber.

I don't know what your doing with your car that you've deemed it needs camber in the rear but I will throw this out. 90% of my running these days is with the track days I instruct at Porsche Club and a VW Audi group. From this I can tell you my car has no problem keeping up with all those German sports cars and I'm routinly glued to the back bumpers of Lotus Elises mid-corner. The suspension set up is pretty much straight out of the prep manual printed here in the tech section. The only time the back end is unruly is when yours truly milks a set of tires one weekend to much.

As mentioned here it can be done properly for the right amount of money but for $3500 you could probably install an IRS rear end which would allow you to adjust the camber and put some toe in the rear..........I'd go for IRS if your serious , beam axles are pretty much an abomination. There main advantage is they are cheap and tough.

Tom