The problem with your dash is most probably due to the voltage regulator for your guages overheating and going open circuit. These regs are simple bi-metal circuit breaker types and prone to shutting down when input voltage gets too high. (High engine revs and small alt pulley). Good solution is a solid state adjustable voltage regulator kit from Jaycar or Dick Smiths, using an upgraded transistor and heatsink. If you're pulling the dash anyway, you may as well fix the problem for good.

Only thing I'VE not done to this ute
Should of rewired her completely front wire harness.
I aready have done from the seat's backwards and installed newer style reverse light's orange instead of the white.
they fitted perfectly in the tail gate rubber bump stop's(which are now removed..

Now I,m kicking myself.
was easier to rewire when she was getting repainted..
Maybe have something to do with little silver module on the rear of the dash unit its self.. this part is (not visible) unless you have the dash removed completely..not that's a great mission on the b10 (1000)'s datsun's..

Actually, you just reminded me of when I got my 1000 coupe, it would always turn over like the battery was flat. (no click, click though).

I bought a brand spanker battery and same thing!

I ended up going and getting another starter motor and fixed it right up!

Funny you mention that!
two or three time's in a week it drop's alll reading's (eletric wize )
SpeedO is mechanical so that's fine..
Funny thing is she still run's fine mean time the guages are a sleep. Dash light's wide awake (visibly turned on)!!!!
Two three bitch slap's to the dash and they wake up..
Not saying that's the way fix the fault but at 180k's an hour no indication of any sort spell's trouble sooner or later
???????? ouch $$$$$$$..
That's the head f##k will not do it on request (in the drive way at home or you know at a stationary position).
Been thinking of complete dash rebuild for month's now because of these little fault's auto eletric dude's got less of the idea than I have..
Speedo cable on it's thrid rebuit (inner surplied by auto one) thank's for still having the kit's boy'z.
LOOKING at all digital setup's pricey but sweeeet looking

So what your saying is that it only starts some times?
Are you getting power to your dash?

Yep Yep done all the trouble shotting trick's (all failed to fix the problem).
Even bought another starter motor and had it reconned , the orginal starter motor is getting reconned now..
Never can have to many bit's to sorce from lol. when it come's to motor spare's..
Bloody Mole still did the no action jackson trick.

THUS the Relay is needed..

that's the picture I need thank's for that..



+ 1. from battery to switch
+ 2. to starter from switch ..
- 3. to seat bass then throught to starter housing ..
All cable's run through the ute cab and are ALL massively over killed with an insulated 16mill dia hose .. Now they have five mill insulation.

No bad connection's.
Mullti meter's do not lie Well not this time anyway..
I also soldered the face's of metal surface's where they attached and the same done to the cable eye connection's area's all clean with solder etcher (clean's metal before solidering).
Relay has done the trick
thank's for your pointer's people's..

Earth is fine.

Quote:
In my case the starter would just click, click, click. If I went out and shorted the two terminals for the starter solenoid with a coin it would start everytime. So the relay worked for me. It's been several years now.
Actually I started with a little 30A relay. When that fell apart I stepped up to Ford style relay.

The relay trick may not fix it depending on the problem - where does your negative cable go from the battery earth?

Did you run one all the way back into the engine bay with the positive one?

Do you have a solid earth from the engine to the body ?

Make sure the +VE battery cable comes straight from the isolator switch you bought to the starter.

Earth should go straight to a good mount on the body and from there, to a good mount on the motor.


To rig up the relay:




+Ve Ignition wire from the switch goes to pin 86

Connect 85 to the body (earth)

+ve from battery to 87

Pin 30 goes to the starter solenoid pin.

I'm not sure if that'll fix it though...

so now that you moved the battery it has trouble starting? maybe a bad earth.