woops thats what i ment

yes that is the castor rod mounting bracket

In your photo album you have a pic of a trimmed crossmember. What part do you mean buy trim the castor rod mounting brackets? Are we talking about the same part?
This part?

1) If you use the short boxes, you might be able to use a 120Y auto tailshaft.
2) the shifter will come up through the factory hole in the trans tunnel.

I'd rather "trim" the castor rod mounting brackets than the engine x-member.

So there are a few changes:
Engine / Crossmember = L18/180B (trimed)

Gearbox / Crossmember = L series gearbox / 180B crossmember

Brakes ect = complete 180B front end i.e. struts, LCA, tie rods, 120y sway bay ect...

Radiator180b radiator

Clutch Peddle = hydrolic clutch using the original 120y and clutch master and slave cylinder out of the 180B.

Tail Shaft = Still not sure. Either 180b one piece or bluebird

Diff = 120y BW diff

What is the advantage of using a stanza sss/ r30 stumpy gearbox over the standard L series one that comes with the L18?

shirley, why do you recomend that i stick with the 120y sway bar? does it still line up with everything?

hi

hey nick

you think you have a h150 in it....so blow it up and go buy a BW

hahaha ca20

Iv actually done the ca20 conversion i wouldnt recomend it the front end dives into the ground around corners it doesnt rev real hard like said many times the only thing there good for is an scrap metal dont waste your money with the ca20 and you probably find the l20b much more fun

nah im not puting a CA20 in. i think i have the H150 in my car not a BW