The quickest way to kill a battery is overcharging. Undercharging is also very hard on them. That's why the alternator should be checked with a voltmeter and ensure its output is between 13.5 and 15.0 volts -- no higher.

The battery in the picture is not a "dry cell", it is a sealed lead-acid battery. There is either liquid or "gel" inside, definitely it is not dry (at least not called that in USA). But it won't leak if you turn it over.

These batteries are good, but if let sit uncharged (flat or partially flat) it is hard on them -- as with any battery.

i would say it is pos to pos and neg to neg.

i've just had a regular batteyr run flat once and now it won't hold charge so i might have to try the thing.

yes the alternator wasnt charging correctly and we have fixed that now however the battery still wont hold a charge. I will ring Rocket to see what they can do however Im not getting my hopes up....
How do you shock it again. How would you connect another battery up to it...pos to pos and neg to neg or flash it from pos to neg and vice versa?? Sounds like it will take out my other lead acid battery if i flash it with cross polarity.

There you go, they are great starter batteries. I must be thinking of something else....

edit: it was the deep cycle i was thinking of.. dont mind me....

I've heard of bad cells from unreliable sources.

But it's more likely the SR20 syndrome. Some fault in the wiring/alternator causes batteries to go flat. If you've had it connected to the car, I find a good push start and 20-30 minute drive is enough to bring it back up to charge. If it's sitting on the shelf, then it may be dead.

My dry cell is still going after nearly 4 years of very infrequent use. But I have found it flat on a couple of occasions. I just jump start it, and never had a problem.

converted,

I have(had) one in my Jeep. Its now in my sons 1200

What I have been told to do is connect it to a "KNOWN GOOD" battery to more or less shock it. and a charger to it at the same time. It has worked for me in the past.

Edit: they are awesome starter batteries





good luck

Mike

I was under the impression that dry cells were designed for use where you need long life, but low amperage draw in odd enviroments. Usually used in hard core 4wds for aux batteries, or in custom situations. Since they are dry, you can tip em upside down and they dont care.

I didnt think that they are any good as a starter battery, even for a lil datto, but I have been wrong before plenty of times.

If you want a battery that will hold charge over a long peroid of time, but still be a good starting unit, try the wet cell calicum/calicum batterys.

The one that i got has a 3 year warrenty in a passenger vechicle and 2 years in a commercial application. It has held charge now for 2 years, only starting about once a month, and it goes like steam, and it was comparitive in price to a lead acid battery.

As far as recovering them, i think it might be terminal, but ask an autosparky or go to a battery specialist shop and ask them. It might be reconditionable, but the cost is often negigable when compared to a new unit.

Hey guys,
My race car has an Odyssey PC545 Dry Cell Battery which cost quite a bit and is supposed to have a long shelf life without needing top ups etc. Anyway the thing wont hardly hold a charge now, its just over 2 years old. Is there any way of getting these batteries back like doing a big deep cycle to give it new life. I cant find anything on the net. They just say you should replace it, which cheezes me orf cause they are expensive and this is the reason I bought it for in the first place cause it doesnt get used much.