in wa our gas comes from north west shelf . you get whatever comes out of the ground. if your lucky they filter the pebbles out for you.
my point is keep some safety margin in your tune up regarding boost and timing because what you get one week may not be what you get the next week
dazza

The last I heard the minimum industry standard for lpg was 94ron. 100% propane is approx 110ron. But with less enerfy per burn cycle than blended propane / butane.

yeah have been advised dont get more than 10.5:1 comp ratio, have pulsar e15 electric dizzy so better there, might need to upgrade coil for a bit more spark but lpg must meet equivelant of 110ron octane as min so better than 98 ron pulp

The industry standard for lpg blend is 60% propane and 40% butand but Australia has a roughly 70% to 75% propane blend as a majority amount of our lpg comes from the Bass Straight and is best left without a heavy butane blend. A good comp ratio for our lpg is around 9.5:1. Give or take bugger all. Too high and you will notice the pinging. 10.5:1 would be about as far as I would go. Another thing with lpg is to consider the timing advance. Timing characteristics between lpg and petrol are very different. LPG req more initial advance and less overall advance while petrol is opposite. Dry slow burn v's wet fast burn. Getting the dizzy sorted out is a major factor with lpg. With my straight lpg datsun I have a base timing of 18 deg BTDC with a total advance of 28 deg BTDC full mechanical advance. As dazza1200 pointed out 'a good ignition system is a must' LPG req a good strong 40KV spark reserve as LPG does not blend well with the oxygen.

a lot of what is written about lpg is from the US where they have a mostly propane brew where we have mostly butane.with info regarding comp ratios you need to consider who is telling you coz if they are from the states they will go for more comp. keep in mind our gas is whatever is coming off the cracker that day and the quality varies. good ignition system is a must.
dazza

and the convertor , safety swicth etc tucked up nice near brake master cyl, just will make bleeding it and topping it up even more painful than jsut having the strut brace

looks like a stock su set up almost which is good




but took a little playing around with the su burners designed for rover v8, had to insert metal restrictors into the brassfirings letting in gas from the lines. too much gas was coming in. Also there was a weird problem as the burners were too large for the su inlet but that was fixed by reliving the su inlets slightly to taper in as well



and fit just like a spacer

well picked up and all done. happy with results, not estatic but there are things that can be done to increase performance even more (skim head is best one to increase compression ratio)

Car idles smoother, revs cleanly all the way through to 6000 to 6500 rpm, only got into 3rd gear
nad 48 lt only cost $25 to fill it.

The tank capaicty is 61 lt but will only fill to 80% capacity (they all do that)




and still leaves heaps if not all of the boot space that was there before

yeah gas injection is almost double the cost here in Aus still so for my frugality, it is better to persevere with "old tech" that can still give alot of injected setups a good run for the $$$

Im runing gas research carb and converter on mine works great on blowthrough turbo applications just have to tune them right took 7 hours of dyno time to work mine out lol