Quote:How much? Instead of the stock 56 or 62 hp (GROSS), you will probably get 64 hp -- but only if you keep the revs up. The 62 HP is only achieved at 6000 rpm. The B10 coupe engine got 66 hp with a new carb, but had a higher compression ratio

The A10 is down on torque primarily because is it only 988 cc size.

yea im actually going to have a look at a 1K coup at the wreckers i think i can get it for under 100 bucks its just missing doors and a diff. amd my mate said i can have his A14 head it just needs a clean up and it comes with the carbi as for the gear box i just asumed it would be an extension of the 3 spd there for 4th being overdrive but i still have much to learn hahaha thanks guys

it'll be good to see dundee
and dodgeman i have a down draught weber on a slightly worked a10 that is pretty much to how bert suggested to build..

awesome.. go the GX10..KB10 exhaust.. ha ha,
I'll still build one..as i've gathered all the parts.. :)
just need the time..

I was going to throw in my 2 cents worth about the engine but it would have basically duplicated Berts post anyway, particularly with regards to the cam.
Just remember that the A10 has a very short 59mm stroke which means is big on revs but down on torque, so don't load up the horse float & expect it to perform.

You mention a four speed gearbox so I will assume that you have a 1967 model with the original 3 speed. You also refer to an overdrive but there are no four speed overdrive gearboxes that fit our A series engines.
Fourth gear is a 1 to 1 ratio & so is 5th gear in the 56A five speed models. If you need an overdrive ratio, then simply swap the diff for a higher ratio one.
B10 Vans & B20 Utes came with a 4.375 to 1 ratio.
B10 passenger models came with a 4.11 to1 ratio.
B110 [1200] models used a 3.9 to 1 ratio.
All are interchangeable.

Here's my suggestion.
Install your four speed & reap the benefit of an additional intermediate gear.
Use rear tyres that do not excede the rolling diameter of the original cross ply's. At 552mm the 185x60x13 are dead on the money.
Use a 4.11 to 1 diff from a 1000 Sedan or Coupe.

Rebuild the engine as per Berts suggestion. It is essential that you don't just screw some fast bits on a tired engine as that will just make it more tired real fast.
If you can find one of the dual SU inductions based on the Lynx D1000 manifold with a couple of 1-1/4" carbs in good mechanical condition then this will add some WOW into the engine bay & make for a peppy performer, otherwise, a basically stock A14 or A15 carb will be the thing. A downdraught Weber will simply drown an A10.
See if you can come up with a dual outlet 1000 Coupe exhaust manifold & engine pipe too. If you use a stock type carb then this will be better overall than extractors.

If all of that is a problem, then find a 1200 engine [up to 1973] These are essentially a drop-in as far as the B10 chassis is concerned but the stock air cleaner rubs on the underside of the bonnet.

yea thanks guys figred id do something different instead of motor swap and ive just finnished year 12 so a lil straped for cash but yer the 1K is a real head turner atm just needs a bit of speed yew thanks guys il get onto it. just gotta fix up my diff first hahaha

dundee i have a cam and a complete gx head and induction to go into my a10 should be a great little motor

Theres nothing wrong with an A10 motor,especially if your short on change which i suspect given your occupation.

Wip the motor out for a freshen up,probably been to the moon and back(maybee twice)and will definatly need...big ends,mains,rings,a chain,welsh plugs and seals/gasket set.Have the head machined,valves cleaned up and seats checked,while it,s in bits give the ports a polish and put it back together with double or stronger valve springs.Before re assembly find yourself a local camshaft grinder and take the stick along to him for a moderate grind.Now rather than drown the thing with multible carby's,find yourself one from an A12 or A14,you can always ream jets later and save a heap of dough.Have the distributor checked for servicability along with the cooling system.My oil of choice in a motor like this is Castrol edge(non synthetic)and change every 5k.with filter.Find some extractors and 2"system and put it back together.you can do heaps more than this but i'm thinking budget here.
You should end up with an engine pulling to around 7000 rpm that will run with most 4 and 6's to about 70 kph with a 4 speed and standard diff.

Have fun
Cheers Bert

as per a lot of us, i think it would be interesting to 'hot up' the A10,
cam, pair of SU's and a good exhaust..
i think it would be great fun...

get a bigger motor drop in an a14 or a15 they will need some kind of a custom mounts made up or just hunt down an early 1200gx which will bolt straight and will get the car going along nicely but you want to keep the a10 sooo
you could do something different and start hunting down go fast bits like a gx head or worked a14/15 head, twin/single webber, electronic dizzy, lumpier cam, and your motor should already have flattops if it hasnt been overbored then rebuild the motor and balance everything nicely and it should be quite a little screamer of an a10
the above build will be something similar to what i am going to be doing in my coupe
its good to know you wanna keep the a10 just save up some money talk to your local mechanic and scope ebay or the forums for those items then ounce you have everything take it all to your mechanic and get him to get everything together
just know that your not going to be able to work the motor 100% cause of the 3 main bearing but the build i mentioned will be allrite for an economical streeter with a bit of grunt