You guys are nuts...

If you invest in the right rods, pistons, turbo, manifolds, intercooler, valves, cam, head work and fuel delivery you could make 320hp with less than 88kg and under 8K aud.

There is a non-nissan way and a nissan way.

The non-Nissan way is a using a cheap suzuki g13 block and using a 61mm stroke g10b 4 cylinder crank, 78mm sleeved bores and bore posts or bore brace tacked welded on.
g16b 16v head with sodium filled exhaust valves and one single inlet and exhaust valve enlarged opposite each other and biased porting to suit a polyquad head layout. Custom inlet and exhaust manifolds with the right turbo should see a powerband in the 4-10k rpm with around 400hp. There is more involved (eg nissan e15et rods and forged pistons) but this is a hayabusa alternative with a supra gearbox or 1.6 swift gearbox and lsd depending on layout required. Engine with all ancillaries should be around 80kg complete.

The Nissan alternative would be more challenging to be around 88kg but you could try to see if you can get a long rod a15/14 with 76mm bore fit an a12 forged crank and E15 crossflow head conversion to try and reach 400hp.

I have thought a lot about doing a project like this but its a bit out of my budget,
love to see someone give it a go though!

I wouldnt steer towards the V8 custom engines.
Waste of money. $60k for 320hp?!

Any of the following methods would cost FAR BELOW $60k. i would even go as far as to say you could buy a donor ute, donor engine, turbo set up, and preform all fab work and paint panel for a lot less then $60k!

Instead, I would just use a plain busa engine and turbocharge it as they already have a tough as FK bottom end, I think off the top of my head they can handle 320hp in stock form for everyday abuse.

Then you simply have to convert the drive to something usable in a car.

Either:

If you wanted a more traditional front engined layout:

Remove all gearbox internals that would make parasitic drag. seal up.
Then remove either the flywheel or clutch cover and have an adapter coupling made up to transmit power directly from the crankshaft to another shaft that has a plate mounting a datto flywheel/clutch assembly that is mated into the standard gearbox.

OR if you wanted to go all out:

Leave the engine as is.

cut a big square section out of the tray just in front of the diff.
Make up a small subframe to hold engine in front of diff and position so that the countershaft (front sprocket) is aligned with the diff input.
Make up an adapting uni joint tail shaft.
Motor side slips over sprocket shaft, other end bolts to diff input.
(Figure A)

OR

Mount engine in front of diff as above.
You can centre the weight of the engine to the centre of the car or, offset to the passenger side as shown, to balance weight of driver and engine.
Then, arrange a parralell tail shaft with a sprocket (either chain drive or belt) and have a chain / belt run from the engine to shaft and one from shaft to diff.
(Figure B)

OR

Mount engine to side of diff, and if not enough room move diff across and have custom axels made.
Then simply attach a sprocket to input of diff and connect a chain/belt.
(Figure C)


All of these 3 options would allow you to have a 6 Speed sequential gearbox.
easy to hook up the linkages and you can already get off the shelf air shift kits for them, ie, paddle shift.

Figures B and C would be more suited to track and racing as it is extremely easy to change gear ratios with chain and sprocket configurations and cheap too.
Downside is the wear compared to a direct uni joint style driveline.

Quote:

OUCH... yeah - I didn't email them for a price. I presume it's probably like a rolls royce (If you have to ask you can't afford it )

hahahhaaha PASS on that.

you wont get much change from 60,000 put it that way

they are sweet as

i wonder what engine,box and postage would be in AUS$$$

how much does the toyota/lexus 4L v8 weigh?

they look nice....would be good for those wanting to go for big upgrades.

sounds like the hayabusa v8 that hartley enterprises in the us made except i think they were 2.4 not sure there is a video on youtube on it revving out to 10500 sounds insane

Hi all

there have been several discussions on good lightweight engines for conversions into 1200s lately. Browsing the net, I stumbled onto this one... One for the UK guys, or someone unafraid of importing elsewhere!!

Powertec RPA:
2.6 Litre, Standard tune
Maximum power 360bhp (plenum), 380bhp (8 butterfly)
Maximum torque 215ft lbs
Maximum revs 10,500rpm
Bore 81mm diameter
Stroke 63mm
Compression ratio 11.0:1

Dry weight of the motor is 88kg, so not much heavier than the A series. There are also 2.8L versions too.

More info here:

http://www.powertecracing.com/pdf_downloads/v8engine.pdf

They probably sound like an old Cosworth F1 v8!

Cheers
Luke