The travel is like juz 2inch. Might b too stiff spring coz i use S14 rear spring.

Sounds like its over sprung and too stiff and probably next to zero suspension travel. I would imagine if the front has also been lowered to the ground too much the roll center is way out also.

Juz change the frt tyre with Yokohama A.Drive 175/70R13 with 30psi.
Feel more grip on wet surface as my 185/60R13 were 5yrs old rubber.
But is jus slight improvement.
Would it b my suspension problem??

Tried 40psi wif 185/60r13 on the frt for few days. Felt quite responsive on dry surface compare to 30psi. Might bcoz less contact area thus less steering effort. Still din get the chance to test on wet road yet. I think might get better result wif 40psi on the frt.

BTW 165 can perform same as 175 tyre on the frt? Coz 1200 r quite light. 165 hv lower profile so might increase handling.

Jmac,i already check my lower arm n is not parallel with the road. I dunno how to say but the body is higher than the tie rod end. So when cornering i still get better -ve camber.

Hi Rallytwit,Wat tyre pressure u reco to hv more grip?

In malaysia i think almost like no ppl equip their 1200 axle with lsd(coz is hard to get + expensive). Most ppl rather put ae86 axle.

Do u hv any pix related to the rear sway bar??

Thanks again...

Ronald................the drifting competition now makes sense.

Another wrinkle besides tire compound is heat range. If you were to run say a 265mm front it would likely never warm up. My son runs a Kart at local Autocross (Gymkhana) and on really cold days we'll pump the tires up for a smaller contact patch which puts waaay more heat in the tires so they get up to temp and offer more grip.

On my road race coupe I run 27 psi all around.

If you can find a LSD get one, this past weekend at a track day coming off a second gear hairpin I could do drifting exhibitions no problem (The car has a 4.11 LSD and 4 speed close ratio gearbox)

I'd have top do the math but I believe the lower profile 185/13 vs 155/12 would offer you lower gearing.

On the rear sway bar it'd be really easy to fit one off another car; the 1200 rear bar bolts to the chassis rail just ahead of the rear tires and then clamps to the leaf spring. I think you might be able to purposely fit a larger rear bar for oversteer.......................simply leave one side disconnected for daily driving then when you arrive at drift competition bolt the one side up (you only need to disconnect one side). When we have heavy rain races I disconnect both sway bars to get more bite...........takes me about 2 minutes tops.

Tom

i can see what you mean but ,i just cant resist a nice set of bridgestone eager traffic accidents , on some nice fat 13 inch jellies !! nice

and a guy i know found a full set of 345/50/13 eagers in the shed of his new house ,but he wants $1000 each !!!

and the the only fat 13 inch tyres that i can get are michelin tb15s which are 470 each (buyers price) and they dont realy last long so ill wait untill i actually need them

Salute to u Jmac...
Really agree wif u both smaller tyre in some case hv better grip than wider. I heard it b4 but nvr figure it out y.

As for the lower arm,i must check to double confirm.

Yes,i did cut the S14 rear spring to lower the height as i use pillowball mount too. The spring hv slightly bigger coils n it fit juz nice but still need to wired it. But i think the shock's oil were still stiff enough(not too stiff).
I will try to use KYB gas shock later n c how does it works.

As for tyre pressure,i found out lately std 1200 were oni approx 25psi. Usually i pumped around 32psi frt n 36psi rear.
But i decrease it now to 30psi frt n 33psi rear as b110 r quite light. Wat tyre pressure u reco?

When you discussed wider tyres on the front, I was almost going to ask if maybe you run the car in drifting competitions!

What I _think_ might be happening, is you actually _do_ have some turn in understeer, it's just that on big wide/slow turns, you don't turn the steering wheel quickly (don't need to) - and so it's only on tighter corners, or where you turn the wheel quickly at the start, that it starts to understeer. It's probably still mostly diff related.

If I'm reading it correctly, there's no wear on the front tyre tread. I'm assuming you mean two things here - 1. that it isn't worn on the inside or outside edge (like if there was too much toe out or neg camber etc) and 2., at the same time there's no significant wear on the front tyres at all. OK - If I _have_ got that correctly, you might actually be in a situation where the front tyre tread is too hard.

Not all tyres are created equal. And believe it or not, wider tyres (all by themselves) don't grip better. Now of course if you go so narrow as to have a small contact patch, it can overheat and 'go off' . But let's look at a more typical example. If you had a certain tread, 15cm wide and another 30cm, lets say with the same diameter/circumference and the same tread compound. Well grip is a result of two things - the friction co-efficient of the tread and the total downforce. In other words, in a perfect world, they'd both grip the same. About the easiest I can describe it is this - if you double the tread contact area, each small section gets half as much downforce on it so the overall grip 2 x 1/2 = 1 is essentially the same.

OK, so with that established, it would mean that wider/bigger tyres don't grip better. But they do. And the reason is actually pretty simple. the bigger/wider the tyre the softer/stickier they can make the tread compound and still get acceptable life. So those wider tyres can be a bit softer, and have the same life as smaller tyres with a slightly harder tread compound.

So, wider tyres can and usually do have stickier tread. Then you come to certain exceptions. In the 185/60/13 range, there are a bunch of different brands of tyres, and also a few that have many different tyres in that size from the same manufacturer, ranging mostly in tread compound and tread pattern, from pasenger car stuff to semi-race and beyond. Then you have some of the sizes that are becoming rare. Two I can think of off the top of my head are for 10 inch mini rims (A few years back there was only one brand for street tyres for them - falken, not sure currently, but there might be one new one) and the other would be early datsuns (and possibly early corollas, I am pretty sure I had 12 inch tyres on a ke20 about 20 years ago) and their 12 inch tyres. In this range you will probably find some examples (if they still exist) like 'bob jane australian all rounders' - they are/were made in a sweatshop somewhere, that probably made a nike factory look like heaven. A _very_ hard compound and not much grip. On the other end of it, there are tyres like 'hero' - which I think are made in China. I originally got them, to get a roadworthy on my datsun coupe, because they were dirt cheap (about AUS$70 each) - in 12 inch size.

Anyway, I planned to use these tyres for about a week or two and fit mag wheels and 185/60 13s . But the biggest surprise I got was driving the hero tyres - they have (seriously) remarkably good grip. I don't think they will last too long (so far about a year and about 8,000km and they look ok still) but who knows.

So the point is - it's possible that the rear tyres are grippier than the fronts despite the size difference.

Another thing which comes to mind is the front end - is there any chance it is low enough that the control arms have dipped below parallel with the ground. Below that and it can cause the front to sort of 'unload' during a corner due to roll centre and weight transfer issues. If this is the case, raising the front until the control arms are just higher than parallel (allowing them to travel to parallel when they compress slightly when cornering)

When you put the s14 rear springs in, did they go in standard, or did you have to cut them down at all to get the right ride height? I've done a fair bit of swapping of front springs in the last few months (about 1 time every 2 weeks) to try and get the fronts right. A stock spring is too soft, and it will bottom out during corners with good enough tyres. Heavier springs will 'work' but they have to be thick enough (to get suitable spring rate and prevent bottoming out) that by the time you cut them down just to get std ride height, they are about 2inchs too short to be 'captive' which means they'd need a shorter strut insert (or the spring to be wired in for safety)

I'd still suggest trying lighter oil in the front struts.

About the only other thing i might ask about is what tyre pressures are you running? They often write about (mostly for drag racing, but also some circuit racing) lower tyre pressures giving more grip. This is _only_ true for tyres especially constructed for circuit racing or drag racing. On modern radial tyres (esp those for the street) the way they are made, lower tyre pressures actually compromise the grip. At the front you might find that pressures up to and even above 40psi will improve front grip, because it brings more stability to the tread blocks as they are put in contact with the road (esp when undergoing other forces during cornering). Running above 38 or so will tend to wear out the inside of the tyre on a streeter, but sometimes the shorter life is worth it for better, and more predictable/consistent grip.

If you could lower the rear without compromising it, then the alteration of the 'pitch' (to use the aeroplane terminology) of the vehicle actually increases the front caster. This 'would' be good, but you can't do that without altering rear suspension geometry, usually for the worse.

The problem is there are so many things that can cause it it's hard to narrow it down.