but they still sell em without tellin you that the crome is crap ect ect and expect u to cover the post both ways if u wanna return it

the genuine nissan bumper is genuine from nissan...they just arent the same quality as they were 40 years ago

noteven my problems where with maddat crossmember , alot of wat they sell is madcrap very unhappy with
engine mounts (went through a 6 of these)at my cost untill they found them to be faulty and gave me 2 new ones
Adjustable Rebuilt Front End that if u adjust it the sway bar will pop out great testing they must do
the brake booster kit needs the relo kit to work
so call'd Genuine Nissan Original Part front bumper looks worse than the ebay ones
ect ect the list goes on!

Ta22 celica master cylinder is what i used, think thats what maddat use also(some kinda toyota one anyway) then have a removable res and you can just put a banjo fitting on it for the line to the remote filler...so yes you need a remote filler too, get something off a bike as they are nice and small
Can make a bolt on bracket i guess, easier to pull the pedal box out and weld the bracket onto it though i'd think

i just ran a normal rubber line from the res to the master. then normal brake line from the master down the inside of the firewall then cut a hole at the bottom of the firewall for it to go through straight onto flexi line

yeah the pedal i made fits the toyota master, pretty sure i used the standard pushrod from the toyota master too

anyone help out with a parts list for the under dash set up?

.... I used genuine maddat crossmember, I am not saying its a bad product, I would recommended to use the clucth resrvoir relocation kit as its too close for my liking if you do purchase the maddat kit..eg touching

Maddats kits are fine I have one in my coupe with sr20 with relocation and reservoir. Bolted in simple and easily.
The main problem people have is when they don't use a maddat crossmember and he engine is in the Wong spot and the intake manifold hits the slave nipples. I encountered this when I used my first mounts myself. Then remade them to clear the booster. Works perfect and worth it IMO.

by perthute on 2011/1/11 22:06:13

"i had the maddat setup but it hit the ca18 and the sr20 so was useless for me"

I Bought the maddat kit off you and I had the same dramas. The small can booster and the brake reservoirs are fine... If you run the clutch master with the reservoir that maddat supply you will have dramas when installing removing engine... my reservoir was distorted by the pressure on it from the intake under revs and had slight pressure on it when stationary.

You have to ask yourself why maddat sell the clutch reservoir relocation kit if it fits so well? I had to fork out for the relocation kit too...

best bet would be go custom and make up something that some of the other guys have for 1/2 the price

All right, you’ve convinced me to have a go at the under dash set up.

-What’s the best master cylinder to use?
-Is it necessary to weld the bracket to the steering column or can I bolt a plate to it?
-Do you need to use a remote filler?
-What’s the best lines to run? One braided one or a metal line with flex hose at the slave cylinder?
-I had a look at the clutch pedal you made for me Pigdog, you welded a new piece on top that has a hole instead of the old hook thing. I’m guessing the master cylinder lines up to the top of the pedal

Thanks for the help

yeah thinking i will go under dash i have a second hand setup for that too, why not make the engine bay a little cleaner

booster is not nessecary unless an engineer is gonna make you have it