Look at the picture here;

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h ... =2&ved=0CDsQ9QEwAw&dur=52

What you will notice is a somewhat common 4-link type of set up. In the photo the converging links are on the top of the diff housing and the diverging are to the bottom. I would suggest reversing this for a couple of reasons. 1) if you do the converging links on the bottom you can use the forward mounting point of the leaf springs to attach the lower trailing arms. This will save some fabrication. 2) this sets the roll center at the bottom of the diff housing.

You can the fabricate the upper links by making an attachment that can be held in location by the u-bolts and plates but leaving the leaf springs out of the system. Take the forward point of the trailing arm attachment to the cross-car "beam" under the seat. Fabricate some attachment points and weld them into the car there. As this is for road use (I presume) use 3/4 inch rod ends. (On a car the size and weight of the 1200 this should be more than enough, they use this sizing on 700+ HP pavement late model stock cars)

Estyre has done it aswell, not sure how it handles but he might put some pics up for you.

Thanks I'll try get Onto him

i havent done it, shoota77 looking at if, a few members have done it. wards best to ask i think

I would like to delete the leafs but not really sure how to 4link a solid diff.sounds like a good idea if you can shed sum light on how to go about it?

probably with 2 leaves minimum, but if you go too stiff going to loose traction and axle tramp, probably rip a rear hanger straight off with serious power.

why not 4 link it if your going to the effort of all this.... its half way there once you coil over the leaves, so it seems silly not to do it properly.

Yea well it is mini tubbed so was gunna run coil over straight thru the floor and weld a bar between the 2 tubs.you Reackon the leafs be strong enough with just the main Leaf in to keep diff located?

you would certainly take some of the leafs out, but could run the main leaf as a locator essentially, bigger problem may be the strength of the mounting points

in coupes i have seen shocker mounting pins bent regularily (h190 vanette ones are super strong though) but also the top of the shock ripping through the floor, if using these mounting points for shock absorber and spring thet would need some serious beefing up!

It's in a 1200sedan with a 13b turbo street car