I hate jiffy lube. Never again, they ripped me off so many times when I was young and naive

Bummer. At least you will like the A15 even better.

thanks zilla.


i ran it with zero oil, never got hot but i drove far enough for the motor died on me on the highway. could be a bearing, but probably its both. once i got oil in it, i could hear a squealing like a loose belt, then at higher rpms it would start rattling furiously. no pick up, felt like i was driving with 1 cylander. compression was 110-89-110-110.

before you judge me for driving with no oil, the story behind that was that ive had a leaky oil pan gasket been that way for a while, never a big deal, put in a quart every 2 months or so. i took it to jiffy lube for a cheap oil change and the guy tells me he cant put it under pressure cause of the leak, so he couldnt do the change. i dont know what pressure has to do with an oil change, but i get my car back and figured id do it myself as normal. whatever they did caused me to go through 2 quarts in 10 miles cause i was #OOPS#ed. they wont take responsibility because it was already leaking when i had come in.

Ive never heard of a rod letting go before. Could you shed some more light on this.
Did the rod break? or was it the rod bolt? Or just a spun bearing?
Im interested in this, because im making good power with no dramas yet. But want to prevent such things happening.

Direct bolt-in. A15s use the same block as later A14s, only the crankshaft, rods and pistons differ. Use the A15 oil pan which has slight notches for the larger crank.

A14 carb is richer than an A15 carb, so no worries there.

so i managed blow a rod on my original a14, luckly ive got an a15 laying around. my plan is to use the a15 bottom end (apart from the oil pan that has to have the a14's double sump), and then once its in, attach my a14's head/manis/carb. i assume ill run lean using the a14's carb but is there anything else i should be aware of? never messed with a block before.