Benny, if you're going to that much trouble, may as well make them blade adjustable as well rather than those solid arms in the pic.

I used to adjust the rear swaybar by moving the U-shackle mounting points on the diff and loosening/tightening the nyloc nuts on the links, or swapping some poly bushes for rubber or vice-versa. It all works and its free. Making all that stuff fixed rose joints like in that pic is taking away the tuning you had with the more basic setup. To me that's a step backwards for a track car.

This is probably a bit late but I posted this about a year ago.....

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=55181

I have been working on a little side project with the rear sway bar on my 1200 coupe. This time I'm trying with a bit more of a mathematical approach. I am going off the advice of a good friend who is a racecar engineer with the baseline spring rate matched to the rear suspension roll centre and rear axle travel characteristics. I am planning on fitting up a calibrated part from "Schroeder torsion bars" based in California USA. They are the choice of sway bar for many racecar categories e.g. nascar. The torsion bars come in calibrated diameters and when matched with the appropriate 4130 chrome molly or 4005 alloy arms [which also come varying lengths], can be identified with a known spring rate. All of the technical data is available on the schroeder torsion bar web site. i.e., spring rate tables and response curve charts.

This could all end up being a total disaster with having all suspension components adjustable, trying to dial in the ultimate set-up. Different set-ups would suit different tracks and or different conditions on the same track though. Just have to start recording the set-ups and outcomes in a notebook for reference.

Anyways I plan to post up the findings once I get the bar fitted up and hopefully translates to better lap times. Plan to fit one the front as well at some point as well.

Pic for reference.

L18_B110 I'm of the stiffer bars softer spring set up so even though overall spring rates are close the handling characteristics are different..............matter of driver preference and type of circuit naturally. Of course our sports racer had no sway bars at all but it was a 70 inch wide car with actual frame only being about 18 inches wide..............not able to take advantage of wide track with a 1200.

As for bigger bars some of the slick shod GT-Lite 1200's I've seen are running 1 inch front bars but they are also running 8-10 inch wide slicks.


Tom

B210, not 210 which is a different Datsun

There is no factory 22mm bar as far as I know. What size is the 610 (180B) bar? It might bolt in to a B210???

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Yes I did it But be sure to get the 210 brackets and rubbers.

Here's a link. http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=48125&forum=9&post_id=420184#forumpost420184

have read through this topic, some awesome info in here!! Nice work.
is the std 20mm 120y sway bar a direct bolt in?
is there a car u can pull the 22mm bar off thats a direct bolt in??

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22mm front bar is roughly 45% higher rate than a 20mm bar, while the 250lb spring is 12-20% softer than my estmated 280-300lb. So your overall rate would be higher than my car was. Just a different way of achieving it.

Yes, just run camber tops rotated slightly gives some castor and camber adjustment

Quick Question..

Caster Tops on 1200 springs non ajustable..Could that be acomplished?