okie dokie, i cheked while the car was off but i guess that changes when running?

Yes, the carburetor MUST be adjusted after a rebuild. After installation it has to be adjusted.

And before you do anything else, check the fuel level. It must be 1/2 way full (over the dot) -- if not have your rebuilder fix that. Or just set it yourself.

i have a tacho for it but i have no idea on hooking it up, soo when it idles at 1100 to 1500 consistently then do everything else, the car will idle for about 20 seconds at around 1400 then it dies ????,

Stop thinking about the timing. If it runs on the choke, it will run off the choke regardless of Timing. Timing is not directly related to mixture.

Your idle speed should be set to what your cam vendor recommends. If it is an unknown vendor, set the timing to 1100 to 1500 RPM -- yes that's high, but the A12 will run fine with it at that setting. You can burrow mom's car and watch the tacho to get a listen for the tone of her engine at 1100 or 1500 RPM. The set your A to the same frequency. Or borrow a $20 rpm gauge.

Once you get the engine running at idle ... then you can set the timing, then afterwards set the final idle-speed and idle-mixture.

To set the timing, there is no need to remove a spark plug -- not if the engine runs with the choke! That's only used to install the distributor. See Timing and stop listening to mates who are not very experienced.

i dont have a tacho hooked up just yet soo i dont know the rpm,s etc. how do i time it to a lumpy cam spec? , i forgot to mention that me and a mate got it to idle without choke but not on its own, we were revving the car to keep it running , i have been told that if i take the #1 plug out and turn the engine to firing point the dizzy should line up with the #1 lead and if its correct, the timing is right, is this true, recommended?

Timing won't cause these symptoms, although you won't be able get the carburetor *exactly* right unless the timing is close to spec. But you can get it to idle at 750 rpm even if timing is off a ways.

You can set timing yourself, it does not require any special tools, and doesn't require a timing light. See Timing

Quote:Causes for that include:
* Engine is not fully warmed
* Idle speed adjusted incorrectly
* Idle mixture adjusted incorrectly
* Vacuum Leak
* Air leak
* Plugged idle circuit

Once the engine is fully warmed per temp gauge, set the idle speed to 1500 RPM, then open the choke (push the choke knob in). Remove the air cleaner lid and ensure choke is 100% open. Finally, adjust idle speed to 750 rpm. If it won't run that low, turn out the mixure screw a couple of turns. If it still won't idle at 750, time to investigate problems (like vacuum leaks).

the solenoid is connected and is working, should i get someone out to look at it for timing and so on?

Later 1200s have an idle-cut solenoid, engine won't run under 1500 RPM if this is not connected to 12V. It will run when the choke is on.

There are two idle screws
* Idle-mixture screw
* Idle-speed screw
Both need to be adjust on the car, AFTER the rebuild.

Yes, timing can cause problems. If it is OUT, then adjust it to what your cam grinder recommends. There is a range of timing that works, it doesn't have to be stock. If it is too far advanced, it will idle well and have plenty of power at low RPMs but won't run over 3000 RPM or so. If it is too far retarded, it'll be low in power and tend to run hot.

but then i have the issue of flooding and it #OOPS#ting out white smoke, the idle screw is fuel -air mixture right?i know the timing is out due to a lumpy cam but that has nothing to do with it right?

adjust the idle screw? sounds like its in too far in and the choke opens it just enough for smooth idle. I would guess that the idle screw is not allowing enough fuel through (probably none) when the choke is in. Adjust the idle screw out allowing more fuel in on idle...