I find that the tailshaft usually needs to be wedged off the diff flange. I use a screwdriver. It doesn't take much effort to separate the two.

No. Might be rusted on slightly if not removed.

no.

does the tailshaft need to be wedged out with a bar?

Thanks for the help,

Got it with the two wrench combo!

I've found that if the car is on axle stands i.e. diff hanging as freely as the springs/shocks will allow and a ringy will fit on one and an open ender on the other, but only on the nut and bolt closest to the ground, or when the rear uni joint allows the most clearance. DD's screwdriver to prevent rotation is on the button and Mik is right with the lube too, just in case. Maybe a deadblow hammer to assist with loosening too.
Make sure you mark both the rear yoke one the tail shaft and the diff input flange before you remove the shaft, so you know exactly which way to reconnect, otherwise it'll be out of balance. A white paint marker will do but the best way is with a centrepunch (one punched dot on both).

> Can only get a teeny tiny 12mm ring spanner on the nuts.

Yep, that's how it works. Jam a long screwdriver in the u-joint to keep it from turning. Then use a length of pipe over the spanner to give it more leverage. It will come loose.

When reinstalling, do not overtighten. They are just little M8 nuts.

Or you could do this using two combo wrenches interlocked to get more leverage:

pics glen... should be 12 or 13mm nuts. are they rusted on? if so soak in wd40 or degreaser. also try freezing them loose with so spray on stuff that shocks them loose.

anyone else had a #OOPS# of time removing their tailshaft from the diff? ((nonreplaceable uni's)
Can only get a teeny tiny 12mm ring spanner on the nuts.
Any tips would be appreciated.

Cheers