check new thread "carbies" some discussion will probably arise hear about this

40 mill dellortoes or webbers

what would be the best type of carby/ies to put on an a14?

if osmo's very lucky,it'll be a post 78 ute,& the a14 will drop straight onto the existing crossmember.the drag link is the bit that goes across the car to transfer steering from the steering box to the left hand (or right hand) idler arm & steering arms.the tie rods bolt to the drag link.

what is a drag-link?

3 notes 1, if you go a15 you will need a 120y crossmember and drag-link to modify to fit it 2,make sure your conversion is engineer approved (make sure you can get a report) 3, make sure you can get insurance, if you company says "yes" get it in wrighting. the only company that will insure me (a15 sedan) is shannons.. i found these things out the HARD way. alot of frustratoin and dicking around..... you will need the stanza struts but a three cored rebuild standard radiator works well (plus you know its not going to disintergrate on you... another note is spen the extra cash on new rubber pipes ,fanbelt, flexable brakelines as well they can ruin your day and they arent that expensive. when getting a new motor it is always good to do a compression test or get in wrighting that they will change it over if it dosnt work (if its not being rebuilt although hot ups do require a good engine to work properly).also get it properly jetted and tuned (this makes a huuuge difference) all this may seem like alot of money and messing around but it is THE cheapest in the long term and you should get many years of enjoyment . just my 2c. oh and dont forget an exhaust manifold it will be different . good luck and happy cruising yes ,iknow its more than three notes,,,,i lied

as terratonga said the l-series is heavier which means you loose the best aspect of a 1200 its handeling as it would become very heavy on the front, an l-series will go straight in a 120y but not 1200's, and 120ys dont have the same handeling stock as a 1200, id say go the a-14 and just chat to a good mechanic about what to do to the motor to get good hp, you really need to specify your price cause you can spend $1200 to freshen a motor or $5000 plus making it perfect, there becomes a point where small hp gains become very expensive due to fine machining requirements

anyway make sure youve got the right bits to start, i.e. you want an a-14, a GX head, twin sidedraught carbies if budget permits or at least a single downdraught webber (maybe others can suggest best size), its quite possible youll get twin side SU's with the GX head which are ok but not as good as webers or delortos.

then start looking at what you can afford to have done to the motor during the rebuild, i would definately look at a 5-speed and with that youd probably want a 4.875:1 diff centre out of an a-12 vanette just to improve acceleration cause lets face it its not worth having a car that goes 200kmh cause its just too flippin likely to loose your license with all the revenue raisers out.

we also must not forget the brakes and suspension with working the motors youll at least want to upgrade to stanza struts and brakes on the front and a 120y swaybar, which will not require a booster or change of master and will bolt straight in (see "how i upgraded suspension and brakes" thread posted a while ago by myself for install of these)

good luck finding a-14, test the car you get it out of for a 5-speed, if it has one dont i repeat dont take it, email me and tell me which wrecker it was at

you seem to want a straight answer on how to get good hp out of motor but one cannot be given, basically you have to specify your price and then a mechanic will decide what he can do for that much, for a mechanic its pretty obvious what to do as they will know what will provide best benefits with reliability, although theres many diffrent motors they all work on the same principles and basically can all be improved in the same ways.

that said youd be much better off taking it to someone who specifically works on datsuns or race motors and has experience with a-series, and you need to tell them exactly what you want the car to do and to drive like cause theres no point getting a huge cam which kicks in at 3000 like my motor if you want to drive in traffic and take off at the lights without spinning the wheels which im finding extremely difficult (my motors designed for one purpose "rally" and really the motor is not expected to drop below 4500prm until the end of the stage

im in townsville, queensland
im going to go to wreckers this weekend to get an a14, how can i make it pump good hp?

Hey Osmo - an L series motor would be a whole bunch of work, weight and expense. Stick with an A14 or A15 - you can get them pumping out more than enough HP for the street or track. Are you in Sydney? If so we can show you a couple of projects to give you an idea.

Thanx alot 1200 rally car, ur answer has made far more sense to me than most others, i am not going to use my datto to haul stuff around in so i dont need much torque.
a friend of mine put a l20 engine in his 1600 and said it was a bolt in, it went hard, would it bolt straight into a 1200?
i wouldnt mind putting in an l20 for the same reason, would it be more work and more expensive than an a14/a15?
does an l20 generally mean it will go any harder than an a14? what is the easiest to put in?
i gather that an a14 is a more practical choice what are some good options for an a14? my price range is about $3000
-thanx for healp again