Hey Chris.

Sounds like a hell of a lawnmower. I would like to see a picture of that too.

Maleny sure is a hippy haven. I thought most of them were into smoking grass, not mowing it though

No Spark. Don't waste money buying new parts -- find out what's wrong first. New leads probably won't solve the problem.

Inspect the leads -- pull each end off the cap. If they aren't corroded, that's a good sign. Inspect the length for blisters, cracks or burn marks. If they look good, they probably are.

If only one has a corroded end, that's a sign something's wrong with that lead, plug or cylinder. If one is corroded, that cylinder hasn't been firing well. Give it a compression check.

To be complete, test the leads with a ohm-meter. All five should have similar resistance. The longest lead might have more resistence than the shortest, for example, if twice as long would have about twice the resistance. If all match according to length, they are good.

To test the distributor:

- Pull center lead off cap, and put an old spark plug on it. Lay the spark plug on a metal part (not near carb or fuel line)
- Take off the distributor cap.

Have someone crank the engine while you watch the distributor. The rotor should be turning. If not, the rotor is stripped, or the distributor gear is (not very common) or the timing chain is broke!

If it is turning and the plug is sparking regularly, spark is not the problem.

If you have original distributor with points:
-Turn the ignition key off
-Turn the engine by hand until the points are on a lobe (open).
- Now, turn ignition on (do not crank it).
- while watching the gap in the plug, touch a screwdriver across the points gap. When removed, a spark should appear at the plug.

If not, the wiring or coil is bad or something is shorted. Possibly the condensor (capacitor). Disconnect the condensor and try it again. Should spark OK. If it won't spark with the condensor disconnected, get a new condensor.

Check the voltage at the coil, should be 9V or more on both sides with the points open. If it's only 9V+ on one side, the coil is bad. If there is no or very low voltage, check the wiring to it and the ballast resistor.

A test light can be used here too instead of a voltmeter.

With the points closed, one side should be at 0 volts, the other at 9V or so. If it's not at 0, check the wiring, it goes to the distributor points. Put the screwdriver over the gap, if it goes to zero the points or gap is bad.

The gap on the lobe should be about the width of a matchbook cover. If it's bigger the points probably won't close long enough to work right (dwell too small). Adjust by look if you need to. If it's way too big, the points might not close at all.

Assuming the points are closed, but still not grounding the wire, in this case you might be able to file the points and put them back on just to get it running, but getting new points will give you less trouble.

Let us know what you find out.

Dude from what I can remember this dude even went by the name of Godfather!

I swear!

Hey Chris did use ever go to the old street runs down Binney and Turbo roads or use never went round that area back then?

My godfather is a old hippy type. He lives up near Melany (2nd largest place for hippies in AUS). So I doubt that he'd be involved in any kind of street racing :)

Chris

Dude did he used to run it down Binney road years ago near your DattoBro's at the old street runs? Cause I sware we used to run one with our old 202 powered 1200!

Dude I swear!!!!!!!

Was 5-6 years ago. I've not seen him for a couple of years. It was rather large, and I think I have a jpg somewhere that he sent via email. I'll post it if I find it.

Chris

tell me more I have acres and I have some a12s but I need a lawn mower and a big one

thanks

You don't have a big enough lawnmower then

Speaking of which, my godfather built his own ride-on lawnmower for his acreage up in Queensland. He used an A12 out of a 120Y.
He was able to mow the lawn neatly at more than 30kmh. It had a top speed of about 60kmh. That's a lawnmower.

Chris.

Chris I want to service my lawnmower but can't find the following ; Dizzy cap,Fuel pump and radiator! LOL!
hmmmm! what to do?

PS, do you need to know what kind it is? LOL!
Later Dude!

Sounds like you are on the right track.

With carbyied engines this would be my order of investigation.

Simple things first.

Spark...Disconnect one each of the spark leads in turn, holding them with insulated pliers and check for arc to earth. This tells us we are getting spark to each plug.

If the plugs or leads are questionable.. replace them!

Check Distributor...Ensure gap is correct. Ensure points are in good condition. Wipe out the cap with a clean rag if there's any condensation.

Coil Voltage (check for broken dropping resistor)..Put a voltmeter across coil. During crank you should get 13.8v, when sitting an IGN position, it should be less (~9-12v)

Petrol...disconnect the coil, and crank the engine for 10 seconds. Remove the plugs and see that they are wet with petrol...Put the plugs back in. If they aren't wet with petrol, then look at fuel filters and fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel line to the carby and have someone hold the hose into a tin while you crank it over.

Check you've not blown a head gasket, radiator water should be either coolant coloured, or rusty water . It shouldn't look like a rusty or lime milkshake.

The engine should be flooded at this point. Foot flat to the floor and crank it over.

If the engine doesn't start, have a smell around the carby. If it's particularly fumey with petrol smells (more than normal) then maybe the float level in the carbs is too high.

By putting your foot flat to the floor, you are also bypassing the idle jets in the carby, in case they are blocked. Thus explaining why it doesn't start normally.

These principals can also be used to fix your lawn mower :) :) :)

Chris