It's 20% power and capacity in nsw now so an a14 needs the blue slip and away U go.

http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/r ... vehicle-modifications.pdf

It's the link to the nsw one sorry it doesn't help with the vic rules...
Cheers Corey

No not stupid ADR's Stupid Victorians, In NSW we can self certify up to a 15% increase in capacity with no visit to the engineer.

ADR's also cannot be made retrospective so pre 1975 pollution gear is a non requirement anywhere in Australia bar having a crankcase breather running back into the airbox.

It's borderline but technically as it wasn't offered as an option in the b 110 b210 chassis in aus it needs sign off. Even b 310 sedan nerds It although wagon does not.
Stupid adrs

Is a engineers required for A14 ??

Cops are switched to the smallest of mods these days so engineering is a must for over 120hp ate.

The only way to get away with it is to use a a12 block with A14 crank, a12 rods and milled A15
pistons for a 1400cc hidden in the A12 block, rowland downdraft mani with 32/36 or 36/36 ida/f
on a stock looking filter housing or similar, some excellent headers/zorst, cam and the rest.
This done right will net you 100hp at the engine at best.

120hp requires very high compression, capacity with awesome planning, tuning, many hours!
A series guru style porting work that will cost more than an a stock NA ca or sr in the end.
If you have a builder that knows his stuff he can do a full sleeved, cemented A12 with 4age
early 17.5 pin pistons same A12 rods, A14 crank, cam & rest as mentioned for 1587cc, 10.5 comp
possibly 100hp atw at 7500rpm is within reach. PJZ can supply 80mm head gaskets to use.

Only a few A series tuners can achieve this and the sleeve, grouted 4age piston route
with carefully flowed head and rest would be the only way to get stock NA SR20DE power
in an A series that looks reasonably stock bar the headers but all within a little A12.

This is not unreasonable but dont expect beyond 100hp atw from an NA A series that looks stock.

I've taken my ideas to an engine rebuilder that has quite a bit of experience with Datsun engines and he's working on the rough cost of the rebuild.

He's even offered to quote up an SR20 conversion for free to compare the two and see the power/ cost difference
Only problem with SR is getting engineered whereas with A series can get away with it if I ever got pulled over and checked

Mmm Chicken or the Egg ?? Either if your looking for cheap A14 build and aiming for 100HP or so and streetable. I would leave the entire motor stock, even the head, except for good rod and head bolts (maybe o-ring it) with around 8.5cr, 8psi boost and a cam re-grind, good up to 7K mark. If your aiming for 130HP+ it will be more achievable with the turbo. And of coarse it will cost more money... T28,(personally), way too big for a daily driver street car, max t25... There are plenty of articles in details( caged or free range) on this subject, just look in Search. Good luck

Oh right so there's no advantage of flat top pistons? I've also heard using a single turbo off of a twin turbo works well?
Might look into the T28s

Only reason I was thinking the 31 diff was to save the hassle of having to do things over again and then I don't have to worry too much about it in the long run


Any advantage of turbo over supercharger? Which would be better for daily driving?

Go the H165 first. If blow up. Change.

Would you need a R31 diff ?? Wouldnt a H165 be enough ??