Just a hint make sure you earth the block and not the alloy head as Nissan was wont to do in earlier days it cuts down on electrolytic corrosion of the alloy cylinder heads if you earth the cast Iron Block instead of the head and that occurs regardless of what coolant you use.

You would be amazed at what stray electrical charges you can find in cars when you go looking, That is why Police and Military vehicles tend to have many extra braided earth straps compared to Civilian variants.

The root of the problem is old, dirty water in the cooling system. On the other hand if you use a proper coolant mix, there are zero corrosion issues, no earthing of the radiator is needed The main reason to use coolant instead of plain water is for its anti-corrosion properties. If the cooling liquid doesn't conduct electricity, there will be no electrolysis problem

hah! rubber for protection is the root of the problem

The corrosion is only a problem if the radiator sits on rubber mounts. Because your bolting it directly to the radiator support its earthed correctly.

all good info cheers! also sw33t engine bay love it, functional and original

Correct. There is no problem with aluminum radiators. Our engines have aluminum head & aluminum water pump so it's already important to use proper engine coolant mixture instead of 100% water

I should also mention that I had a small problem with a leak at the drain plug. Luckily I always check for leaks with just plain water before I add antifreeze. Anyway, I kept getting a drip from the drain plug. So I figured the problem was with the o-ring seal. I ran to the local auto parts store and got a couple different styles of drain plug gaskets thinking that was the problem.

Well What I found was somehow the drain plug matting surface had a pretty good sized nick in it (see picture) and it was leaking water through this "nick". I think the radiator came with that nick because I was very careful not to hit it on anything. But I suppose its possible that I did, I just don't think so.

Anyway, I was able to get a file in there without removing the radiator to file it smooth. After a little more filing, it worked. No more drip.

I'm just adding this info so others might want to look at this before installing, or be even more careful than I was while installing it, in case I accidentally did it.

Here are before and after pics.

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  sIMG_6828.JPG (118.83 KB)

ddgonzal,
I read the info on this site and somewhere it mentioned radiators from "OZCP" and I bought one that looks just like that one. Your right there are many on Ebay. I believe there are two types of Aluminum radiators for our cars. 1) where the top and bottom tank taper down to the sides. 2) Where the top and bottom tank is flat all the way across to the sides.

Anyway, I think all the ones on Ebay with the taper are probably all the same. I purchased mine from a seller named "M2speed_racing". It was $138 (US) with free shipping. It came fast (California to Arizona).

So far I'm really happy with it. I'm using the cap that came with it. My temps yesterday were easily 25% cooler than with the orig radiator.

Also note, my car is an A/T and a couple sellers list this radiator as a manual only. The 1200 A/T trans doesn't run through the radiator so I think they are the same.

DattoMaster,
I have read about that issue on the net too. But after talking with several Z-car & 510 owners with Aluminum radiators. I don't believe its a real problem if you use distilled water 50/50 with antifreeze (coolant). I also checked with a couple of manufactures of Aluminum radiators and they said the same thing.... just use quality antifreeze with distilled water. Change it every few years.

Dale - AZ

is there an issue with it corroding if you dont earth either engine or the radiator well?

Sounds good Dale. Which brand did you go with? there are so many on eBay and some don't fit as well as the one you got


Yeah those cheap aluminum radiators works rather well since they are so thick. No one can afford the good brass/copper kind, even the automakers cheaped out by making such thin radiators. The stock B110 radiator was barely adequate even when new

* B110 standard radiator $$
* B110 three-row GX radiator $$$
* N14 1.6 all aluminum radiator $
* N14 all aluminum SR20 radiator $$