I just finished spraying my coupe this week actually. I did it in white Acrylic. started with rattle can etch primer after all rust repairs. 4 coats of high fill sanded back with 800g, 2 coats of primer sanded back with 800g, 4 coats white acrylic sanded back with 1200g, 4 coats acrylic clear sanded with 1200 then 2000. Still need to buff it but will do that when the car is ready to be put back together.

I used a pop up marque from kogan and honestly spent more time repairing it after all the wind i had over the last few months.

I'd recommend spending the time making a decent area to spray it first.

Things i found really helpful when spraying were to back of the mixture or flow of paint, limited the amount of wastage and over spray to sand off.

I used paint from a local body repair shop but found the Septone products from supercheap auto to do the best job.

If you're going with a spray job 3-4 coats of primer - filler then the same of topcoat but sand between the primer and the top coat using 800 then 1200 .... you need to be smooth enough to remove the scratches but still leave enough for a 'key' into the primer for the top coat.

just get rid of all dust in the work/spray area. 90% of your time will be getting to where you start your colour.

So how many coats of primer do u reccomend before paint and how many coats of final paint? Ill be starting on engine bar first.

Rustoleum, Rollers no Spray cans being done to show cars and classics
Much easier, less dust and chemical used, cheap and proven

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ&ytbChannel=jtech87

add to Rustleum gets rid of any orange peel, paint flows easier
and coats bond better.
https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b962 ... 265-bb66-26f680a785ae.jpg

Yet panel prep is the hardest and most important part before paint
however no need to make the painting process so complicated, expensive,
less toxic, prone to error and avoid grasps of exorbitant panel shop prices

Good thing about Acrylic is that if you do get a run , lint or even a bug land on it just let it dry then wet sand it out with 1000 grit paper , hoe into it with cutting compound and presto 'no more ooppsy'
dp

We sprayed mine in the garage; my buddy who grew up on Gaum and sprayed cars in his car port used to lightly wet down the floor to keep the dust down. I didn't do this in my garage and ended up with dust specs stuck to the roof.......oops. As it was only meant to be a 5 footer race car paint job it looks fine till you get right up close.

Lots of good tips from '1200Rallycar' there. Not sure if this was mentioned, but a good idea to wet down the floor with water to reduce the chance of dust blowing up into the fresh paint.

YouTube is your friend. I would suggest 'The gunman' who has recently done a 3 part garage spray job series and also check out 'Homebuilt by Geoff' . Geoff is currently doing up a 260Z on his Channel and will be spraying it soon. In some of his previous episodes he shows how he built an inexpensive spray booth and gets some amazing results on a 911 Porsche.

Good luck with it and post progress shots.

Body isnt too bad. Theres no pealing paint. Just faded really bad. Its been resprayed in the past so i was gonna rub back to the original paint

Whats the paint like now?

I was just gonna go the factory marone (maroon whatever :p). Maybe i should go over it with a 400 before putting primer on